Wednesday - it rains in torrents, and makes it perfectly impossible to go to church, although I see a few have braved the weather. So I have passed the day before a bright coal fire, and the first I’ve seen since last December, toasting myself and reading a novel, (and my prayers). Bob has been down to the post office, hoping we might hear from home once more before we left here - as Bob telegraphed to Henry Bunt, about a week ago, we were thinking that you would see that we should remain long enough to get another letter from you. We are going to retire in good season tonight.
p161 Thursday - Quite a bright day but very cold, and to us it seems bitterly so. Bob laughs and wonders what I would think of at home now. We heard this morning from Henry Bunt. He tells us the house is nearly finished. Tell me, is it nice, Mother? I hope so. I dare say there are faults, but no one ever built without wishing they had done so and so, and I am sure I shall be quite satisfied if it is neat and comfortable. I went to Madame Leontine’s this morning to be fitted for a street dress. My clothes are either too dark or too light for this spring like weather. I took the blue poplin I bought in Cuba, and with a grey poplin underskirt it makes a very pretty suit. I only wish I had time for a light silk to be made, but we shall leave here by Wednesday of next week, and so there would not be time. Bob is smoking and reading, no plans for this evening. We have seen and heard all the amusements going on, so far, and until there is a change of programme our evenings will be very quiet. Bob’s friends, Mr. and Mrs. Morgan, go back to their plantation tomorrow morning; gave us a very cordial invitation to visit them.
p162. Friday - Another miserable wet day. Bob and I are quite at a loss about what to do with ourselves. We have been sitting down before the fire most of the day reading, and with occasional listening spells to the very disloyal tattle - We hear Mrs. General Bragg holding forth to another lady. Bob, I see, can scarcely contain himself. We have not seen Colonel Sturgeon for some days. The weather, I suppose, has kept him from coming into the city.
Saturday - Still raining but quite warm. We are in hopes Clara has safely reached St. Louis, and presume she will wire - even a line would be comforting. Here we might have heard from you again if Bob had only made some settled plans. I have taken out a hankerchief to embroider, something to kill time, and played Resique with Bob. We can neither of us go out this weather, and it is not so pleasant for us.
Sunday - At last a bright Sunshining day, and I arose in good season thinking I could go to church; but Bob is awful - he delayed getting shaved until it was quite out of the question. So we took a walk around Jackson Square, and peeked in at the p163 Cathedral - Col. Sturgeon dined with us at four o’clock, and we spent a very pleasant evening. Upon reading the mornings papers, I saw a Mr. Lester Clark’s name, and wondered if it could be Bob’s friend. When we returned from our walk we found his card and so it must be the one. And the blood thirsty and voracious interpreter of the Hotel Telegrafo of Havana is in town. I sent some of his letters to the papers here which he told Clara and me he wrote for, but he was such a liar we did not believe him. He must have recovered very quickly, Clara, from his smallpox.
Monday - Went out shopping with Bob to find a pair of boots for myself: not such a thing to be found. How I wished I had purchased more in Cuba. They ask twelve dollars here for boots, and none of my number. Everything is extravagantly high, I never saw anthing to equal it. Found Mr. Leslie Clark’s card again, so Bob went over to the St. Charles, and left his card, with a few words that we would be at home between six and seven this evening. Had a call from Mrs. Major Smith also - we are going p164 to make a farewell visit tomorrow upon Mrs. Donahoe, and see the Arabs perform at the Opera House, Clara. This is the first opportunity we have had to see them in public. They have been at the circus all this time, and that institution not being just the same here that it is in Havana. We leave here either Saturday, or Sunday evening for Mobile. We take the Steamer at Lake Pontchartrain at five in the afternoon, and if on time are at Mobile by nine the next morning.
My letter must go tomorrow, for you will be wondering why i do not write. How I wish I could hear from you again before leaving here, I do hope my own little girl keeps well, I think of you all so often and trust nothing will happen to you before I reach home. You have no idea how Bob has improved since we came here. He really looks like himself again and when he first came, Sturgeon was quite shocked at his appearance. Well, by the time this reaches you Clara will have been at home some days, and given you quite a description of all our doings. I miss her very much for of course Bob is not with me p165 at all times, though no one could be kinder, or more selfless and devoted. Elizabeth, too, I miss when I get tired and am in an awful hurry. Don’t let her think, Mother, but what I am depending upon her, when I return. Maria Reed has returned ‘ere this, I suppose - Much love to her and Auntie Bert. That closet in our house, do see that it is taken down if it spoils the landing. Bob says he thinks from what he wrote, Henry will attend to it, but I am sure he does not write explicitly enough; the closets were to be finished inside as Bob wished or directed. Now in that (one) in our room we want a few drawers, good sized ones, and in that closet in the upper hall I intended to keep our linen, but if the closet interferes, I could take the one in the back room. If not, we want drawers put into it like those at Aunty Berts. Will you and she see to it? Bob says, have it fixed according to your own ideas. Bob will get what furniture and gas fixtures we want in new York, and also the mantels. I am afraid you will all think me equal to Henry Dudley, in my letter writing, so I will finish this off, for it must be an infliction to wade through it, and then you know I cannot write slow which makes my writing horrible. Wearing my thin barege today and having strawberries here in great plenty.
Tuesday - We had such a pleasant call from Mr. Clark. He is travelling with his father and came from Cuba here. They arrived *(was it not too bad) in the Liberty on Saturday and we took our departure from New Orleans in the same ship on the following Monday. Worst of all he was staying at the Telegrafo, and so Clara and he were two days in the same house without knowing it. He discovered it by going to the Post Office where he saw her name on the list of letters. On returning to the hotel he learned from Gov. Miner that we had left that morning. He manifested his disappointment so plainly that when he left (on the next Steamer) they all teased him, as hurrying away to meet Miss Sizer. It was a second disappointment to him to find that she had again left. It seems he had also called to see her in New York after we had started in the Morro Castle for Cuba. They leave today for Chattanooga, and may possibly go to Buffalo, he says. he made one call upon Mrs. Donohoe but they were out.
We went down to the levee this morning to see the New Steamer “Robert E. Lee”, the finest on the river. Going this evening to see the Arabs at the French Opera House, and tomorrow evening to the St. Charles Theatre to see Jefferson in “Our American Cousin” - I find the tickets for the “Mistick Kreme” performance are so large, I cannot send them, but enclose the programme. Now hug my darling, darling precious for me, and tell her to be a good little girl. A kiss for Lena and love to all and one of the family. Bob sends much love.
Aff. Yours
Sara
p168 Mobile, Mch 20, 1867 How much easier it is to keep a sort of journal from day to day so that the dear people may keep posted as regards our movements. And I do not have to puzzle my brains to recollect where we have been for the past week. Sent off my letters, and have quite given up hope of hearing now from home before we reach Charleston.
Tuesday - Went to the Opera House, to hear a French play and see the Arabs, Clara’s “Hash” did not perform to any extent at which we were somewhat disappointed. They did not discover us, although we had front seats, but they seemed to be gazing about the house as if looking for some one. Bob has such a capital joke on me, words cannot describe it on paper. I was intensely amused at the play, and though I could not understand the language, laughed at everything. I notced that Bob nudged me but paid no attention whatever. You know french plays are not remarkably modest; on the contrary they are rather broad and it seems I laughed at a very mal apropos time. Never mind, I laughed still more when it was explained to me, and as it is not quite proper, will leave the description until I return.
Wednesday - Took the cars out Prytannia St. to make our last call on Mr. Donohoe - found them out. Afterwards sauntered up and down Canal St. ,got me a pretty jet comb like Clara’s. Have not found, or made, any acquaintances in the Hotel, so that when Bob is not with me (which, to be sure, is very seldom) I am quite lonely. But Bob buys me the greatest quantity of novels, so that already I have quite a library on hand. We went to see Jefferson in the American Cousin. The house was crowded and we enjoyed it very much, though Bob preferred his “Rip Van Winkle.” Received a letter today, forwarded from Cuba by Mr. Springer from Charlie Hayes.
Thursday - Before getting dressed got Clara’s letter, and we were delighted to learn that she had such a nice time. She does not give me the reason of the delay at St. Louis, but we conclude it was storming, or non-connecting trains. I wonder, too, if she is p170 going to make a visit in Cleveland. By the by, Mother, you may just inform Miss Elizabeth, she is very much mistaken that unless she put Mr. Hayes boots in her trunk, she did leave them behind, for they are certainly not in any of our trunks, as we have repacked them all. She was very careless about things, and much more would have been left if I had not asked about this, or that, and which used to make her quite huffy. Bob had to buy her another pair at a most exporbitant price, $16. Provoking enough. She need not be quite so sure. Mr. Sturgeon dined with us today and went with us to the theatre in the evening.
Friday - Today it rains in torrents and so cold, I’ve put on all my heavy underclothing, drawers too, so you see it is quite a change. The river is rising and some parts of the city are covered with water. They seem to fear that they will have trouble here, as in other places. Quite a party of French Counts and Marquises came this morning by the French Steamer, also a large party from Cuba - and say, my Dear Clara, all their dresses and cigars in their trunks were confiscated - everything.
The ladies were feeling awfully blue. They came by the steamer Havana. The whole vessel was searched thoroughly, so we were very fortunate, you see. This evening Bob nd I have passed playing Resique -
Saturday - Cloudy, but not wet, so that we could walk out - Bob and I went round to the “Head Quarters”, but Sturgeon was not Officer of the day, as we supposed, so we visited the City Hall, and poked around into innumberable places. Packed most of my things ready for a start on Monday night. Mr. Clark gave us some hints relative to Hotels on our route, before he left, which may be of some service. Spent the evening very quietly reading. Eliza Donohoe called and bade me goodbye, the day after I was there; she was, and has been extremely cordial and polite to us, as has also her husband - I feel as if a line from home telling me Mollie was quite well would have been very comforting before starting again. Still, we are getting nearer home. I hope you enjoy the pecans, Bob knew you were very fond of them, Mother.
Sunday Mch 17 - This morning Bob went down to the baracks to bid Col. Sturgeon goodbye, for he was on duty there and could not get in to see us off. Sent a bottle of very fine old wiskey to us, some of a lot that was presented to Gen. Sheridan -
Monday - The last preparations for our departure were made, and I was quite delighted to receive a letter from Ev, although dated the 3rd two weeks on the way - but it gave me later news - They have been having such terrible floods that the day I got this, nine mails were received which had accumulated between the north and this city. Mr. MacCormack called on me, Clara - He had arrived from Cuba only the Thursday before and been confined to the house with rheumatism - He wished to be remembered to you. Said he came down to the liberty to see us off, but arrived there just in time to see us steaming out of the harbor. We left New Orleans at four o’clock taking the cars to the lake - from thence by the steamer “Mary”, a very good boat. We were delayed by a heavy fog p173 and so did not get into Mobile until ten o’clock, on Tuesday morning. We had a fine opportunity to see the obstructions in the bay. There is but one passage for steamers going up and down the river, and that very narrow, allowing but one to pass in at a time. A rain storm came on just before we reached the landing, so that our view of Mobile was at a very inauspicious time. We drove through mud at least three feet deep to the “Battle House” as it is called, and as Bob very justly remarked this morning, we presume it must have been named from the passage in Scripture “the house smelleth thy battle afar off,” and certainly it applied in that sense to this house. Well, it poured and poured our first day in Mobile. We thought it a healthy and agreable climate for ducks and other amphibians. We had nice rooms, however, and with the aid of novels, and bezique, we passed the day very pleasantly indoors - our bezique has been a never failing stand by - a corps de reserve, to rally when sight seeing is impossible - and p174 this first day in Mobile any attempt to lionize would be vain.
Wednesday - rain fell, and equipped with umbrella and rubbers we started out for a stroll, going up Government street, the finest area here. Soon the sun came out, a cheering sight, and it seemed such a lovely spring like day. Roses and other flowers in free bloom and in any quantity. So much handsomer than any street we saw in New Orleans, and yet the houses which had evidently been quite stylish in their day bore unmistakeable signs of the war, a general dilapidation about them. People complain here, sadly, of taxes - everything is much higher here than in any place we have been (Billiards 50 cts, shaving 25 cts - RPH) 12 cts fare on street cars even. We saw many earthworks in different parts of the city which were constructed during the war - we finally took the cars after walking quite a distance, and went to their terminal in the suburbs. After dinner we took a carriage, and p175 drove all about the city, saw the place where that terrific explosion took place just after our troops took possesion of the city. Powder shells, etc. were stored in a large warehouse, and in some way fire was communicated to them. Twelve entire blocks were levelled to the ground, and where the explosion commenced, there is now quite a lake, it went so deep into the ground. Of course it is built up somewhat, but it is still a picture of desolation. The ruin caused by this explosion together with some destructive fires that, having occurred since, makes the city wears a badly damaged look. We went to the theatre this evening to see the “great Tragedian”, Daniel Beaudinau - a very slim house indeed, but the play was very good. We leave here tomorrow morning or in the afternoon at two o’clock for Montgomery - Shall probably give that place a day, and then from there to Augusta. I try to write every week but my letters may be a day or two behind. We are both improving in health and pleasant weather has such a decidedly good effect on our well being that we shall go slow on our homeward road, though it will not be long now before we shall meet again.
We have had much unpleasant weather the last week and it seems very unlike the “sunny south” one reads of. My dear little Mollie I hope keeps quite well. I wonder if she dreams of me as often as I do of her.
Now that I am turning my face homeward my thoughts even in my sleep travel home to you all and I often wake fearing something may be wrong for I think of you so much. Be a good dear little girl, Mollie precious. Kiss Lena many times.
Dear Ev, I shall return your kindness when you are absent some time, and keep you posted about matters. Still you lazy mother, you too might write a line. Well, you just commence, Mother, and hug the family all around for me. Dick, Hen and Will, much love to Auntie Burt and family, and hoping so to get letters and of recent date at Charleston. Just write one letter often you get this to Washington, then to New York. And now good bye, my precious ones all. Bob sends much love to his dear little girl and all the folks. I presume Clara is in Cleveland. Much, much love. Aff. Sara
The most terrific hail storm has come on as I write. Large hail stones - thunder, lightening - frightful! -
p177 Sarannan, Wednesday, Mch 29, 1867
We arrived here last night, so I shall have to go back almost a week, and tell you what we have been doing. We took the steamer from Mobile up the Tensaw river about twenty miles to a place called Blakely, and there found nice sleeping cars awaiting us for the rest of our journey to Montgomery - We took supper at a place called the Pollard House, as wild as any California diggins, lit up by huge pine logs. The fare was wretched but quite novel. I think Bob must make a drawing of it if he can and send home to you.
We reached Montgomery about seven last Friday morning - the hotel was only passable, some thought after driving about the place we would take the evening train to Atlanta. It was a lovely day and a beautiful place to visit. We went to the top of the Capitol, and had a fine view of the surrounding country and were much surprised to see so many large and beautiful residences. After getting on board the train, and all settled, we found there were no sleeping cars, a pretty predicament for two invalids - However we were well under weigh (sp?), so there was no help for it, and we were assured by the ticket agent that one would be put on at West Point - We had a long, long tedious ride - Think of being fifteen hours in going only 133 miles - stopping, as it seemed to me every other minute, and the road fearfully rough. We were just about worn out when we reached the Hotel at Altanta about nine Saturday morning.
The Hotel there was much more comfortable than the one we had left, and our room was large, nicely furnished, and on the second floor corner room. After breafast I piled into bed, and slept until the afternoon, when we took a drive about the place; saw Sherman’s monuments (as they call them here) everywhere. You know the city was almost destroyed by fire after it was taken, and although it seems to be rebuilding fast it still looks very dilapidated - houses burnt down everywhere, and even after leaving the place for miles outside of the city. The fortifications
p 181 we also saw, and, I believe, did the place thoroughly, even so far as to attend a performance in their largest hall in the evening, and about the most country performance I ever witnessed. We were obliged to take a lantern in order to see the road; but when we are with Romans, we must do as they do, and when one is travelling, see all the sights. How heartily we laughed, I leave you to imagine. Bob thought it best for us to leave Sunday monring, although we debated it some time, but we did not wish to wait over another day in Atlanta, and so concluded to leave, - We had a nice lunch prepared for us, and another lady and four gentlemen were the only ones besides ourselves in the cars and the latter very comfortable. I think I rather enjoyed the trip to Augusta. We reached there at six o’clock, had a good supper - took a walk, but as it was very dark, could not see much. We retired early proposing to rise about a quarter before seven, and ride about the place for about an hour before breakfast, and then leave on the half-past nine o’clock train for Savannah, which we did. Augusta is a p183 lovely place, and filled with beautiful residences, and lovely gardens, and The Planters Hotel a comfortable place of sojourn. The streets are very broad and lined with trees. The Masonic and the city halls were about the finest public buildings. We had a rather tedious ride here for the road is not near as good as the Atlanta and Augusta Rail Road. We came directly to the Sairen (sp?) House. It has recently been refitted very beautifully. Through Bob’s commandery pin, which he for the first time happened to have on (although he has made himself known before as a Mason p184 to others, and being acquainted too, in other cities - here we knew no person) we were accomodated with the very best room in the house (Private Parlor No. 1), velvet carpet, black walnut furniture - fine style, and taken good care of - I tell Bob his being a Mason has been of great service in our travelling. Since we came back to the states, we have had the best.
Well! Today, and it is Tuesday, we have been walking and driving about the loveliest of cities, such wide sreets and avenues, and so densely shaded p185 with trees, and having twenty seven parks. Some of the streets, Broad and Ray streets, have, for instance, four rows of trees, there being a double carriage road, with broad walks on the outside. Forsythe Park, at the head of Broad Street is perfectly beautiful. They say the design of the fountain in the center was taken from the Crystal Palace fountain at Sydenham, England. We sat upon one of the seats in this park, enjoying the beautiful balmy air, and the perfume of the roses, a long time. There seems to be a profusion of flowers here, and everything even more advanced than we had seen farther South. Today we have had new beets and tomatoes for dinner, green aplie pies, etc. Opposite my window there is a very pretty square called Johnson Square, and a marble shaft stands in the center erected to the memory of Gen. Greene, and Pulaski, the cornerstone of which was laid by Lafayette. Another one in Chippewa Square, also to the memory of Pulaski, is very, very handsome, of white marble. Fine churches and many charitable institutions. We also drove out on the Shell road; p187 thought of going out to a place called Thunderbolt, which derives its name from the fall of one of those articles, but it was too far - for “Jeff. Davis,” the name of the horse we had refused to run - we concluded he needed his petticoats on, so we gave it up. We also want to go to the Cemetary Bonaventuré, three miles out; we have been told it is very beautiful. The Shell road is just lined on either side with evergreens, and magnolias - they almost meet overhead. I am in extasies over this lovely place - and the weather is so balmy, not warm enough to p188 wear their clothes, but like our spring days - Bob and I are improving, and hope the cold days will be over when we reach home. I do not know how long we shall stay here, probably not longer than Friday - Dear precious little girl keeps well, I trust. If she has, it is a most wonderful thing, Mother, and all owing to your and Ev’s good care. She has been good and minded you always, has she not? I feel as if I could hardly wait until I hold her in my arms. You ought to see everyone stare at my trunk, and say it beats anything they ever saw. We have had to pay for extra baggage on these Southern roads. There are many funny incidents which happen to us as we travel along; I wish I had time to write you of them - “Yankee” appears to be the worst and most approbrious term which Southerners can apply to one another, and the innumberable times we have heard it applied often excites our visibility - I write such long journals of my travels, Bob says he shall have to have them published and sent South, under the title of “Notes of a Yank.” I have made few travelling p190 acquaintances, I know not whether it is their, or my fault, but I always feel timid in conversing with entire strangers, fearing a rebuff. There are no amusements going on here at present, so our evenings are passed very quietly - Bob attending a lodge meeting or two. We take the steamer from here to Charleston where I expect to hear from you all, you precious people. Bye the by, we saw here, and the first view of one, a palmetto tree, looking much like a palm, but leaves growing farther down - Clara, this house has the loveliest “Gabinete para las Senoras” you ever saw. How you would enjoy them. I never saw such beautiful forests, so thick, and trees so tall, and wild flower cactuses such as we cultivate at home with so much care. why, Judge Clinton would go wild over all these botanical treasures. Bob has just come in and says we leave Friday morning on the steamer “Eliza Ann,” at seven o’clock, and reach Charleston the same evening. then, and oh! then, I shall at last hear from home and it seems a century since the last letter from you. I hope you are all well, Auntie’s family too, - How does Sarah Barnum get along? Wouldn’t I pack off that nurse of hers, if she belonged to me. We are going to Bonaventuré this afternoon, so I must tell you in my next all about its beauties, and shall write in answer to the letters I shall receive in Charleston.
I suppose you often see Elizabeth. I shall write to her before returning. She must be on hand when we do get back. I suppose Lottie Burt has returned and I hope Freddy has quite recovered. Will they give up their rooms this spring? Henry said something
p193 about going to housekeeping if she could find a small house. Tell the boys I’ve a few cigars for them too. Now my own little girl it will be but a short time before Mamma sees you. Do be good and mind Grandma, and be good to Lena. I supposed I should not have time to add any more to my letter, and expected to post it before going out this afternoon, but as the mail does not leave before the morning shall thus be able to tell you about our lovely drive to Bonaventuré - We started after dinner in quite a stylish equipage, coachman in livery, etc. We met this same establishment yesterday, and supposed it was a private one, and were greatly astonished when it came for us today. We went out the Shell road and then turned off about three miles east. Imagine the trees almost meeting on each side the road for that distance, and a lovely summer afternoon. We entered the cemetary through a rustic arch. This cemetary was originally a private estate owned by Commodore Tatnall; but for many years past it has been in the possession of Major Wilbur (sp?) who now, since the war, keeps the Pulasky House p195 in this city.
Tatnall’s tomb is about the centre of the grounds, and the remains of his home may still be seem, also that of the present owner which during the war was demolished by Sherman’s soldiers to furnish building materials for their own huts - a burning shame that they should have been allowed to desecrate such a place. The whole estate is about five hundred acres, thirty of which is used for a cemetary, but all owned by Major Wilbur who simply sells a lot as it is wanted. it lies along the bank of the Warsaw River.
But to return - We entered through long avenues of oaks, which met overhead, forming a succession of arches, and from which, and indeed every portion of the trees, were long streamers of Spanish moss, reaching to the ground and swaing to and fro in the breeze, like funeral banners. I cannot describe to you how weird and unreal it all seemed; and such a profound stillness!
These avenues stretch out on all sides, so you are continually passing under the arches. It seemed like a grotto with stalactites hauling from the roof. Never p197 have I seen so beautiful and impressive a home for the dead. Fit home indeed.
“Where like a tapestry o’erhead”
“The gray moss floats upon the breeze.”
From here we drove to the little village of Thunderbolt which is also upon the river bank, and saw the famous spring which has continued to flow ever since the fall of the thunderbolt. At all events they say this was the origin of the village and spring. So you see our afternoon has been well spent, and for a two days sojurn in this city, we have seen almost everything. now, good bye, dear ones all - Bob sends much love to one and all. Remember us to all the dear friends. Thousand kisses to my little girl. Aff. yours, Sara.
p198- Drawing of “Cherokee exchange Saloon, Whiskey and Pies
Dear Little Pokey - the beautiful picture above is a place on the Rail Road, way out in the woods, where your Papa and Mamma took supper one evening on tough chicken, sour biscuits, rancid butter, bean coffee, brown sugar, and “sich like.” All for a dollar a head - Four white people and fourty niggers make up the town - I have not drawn the hotel, kept by an old darkie woman which was near the rail road track, and was a board placed on two barrels, with more sour biscuits, and worse coffee, and dirtier sugar. Papa couldn’t eat much; but Mamma wouldn’t leave the table till the landlord got the conductor to shout “All Aboard” - The country here is full of little nigs, and Mamma is so much in love with them that I shouldn’t wonder if she brought home a little nigger baby with her - Good bye my precious, we shall soon be home.
Your own papa
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