p119. Saturday Feb. 16. At last your letters have reached us. They came from Key West in a steamer last night after we had given up all hope of getting them, and even brought to us early this morning by Mr. Springer of the Consulate. Four weeks ago they were written, dated Jan 29 We ought to have received them a week ago. In the same bundle was one from Lottie Burt and Aunt Charlotte. It was perfectly delightful to hear from you all. Ah! Only those who are so far way from home as we are can tell with what eagerness we look forward to the arrival of the steamer. You see, we are still in Havana. No Liberty made its appearance until this morning and she does not leave before Monday. So we have staid here a week longer than we anticipated, and this last week HAS RATHER dragged. When one makes up their minds to leave and get packed you feel you want to start THEN. We have not escaped the storm you had at the north. It is that which has delayed -- p120-- the steamers so. . Bright and early Monday morning we take our departure having thoroughly done Havana far better than any of you seem to realize at home. Aunt Charlotte’s letter was cautioning me over and over again about taking care. Now I really DO but I am so very much better, you none of you seem to understand. It is Bob, really, who is the invalid now. His asthma is really VERY, VERY bad. He has never had so severe an attack. And what is more, it continues through the day, more or less, gives him an intense headache almost all the time. He has grown quite thin , and I really feel more worried about him than myself. Evidently the climate does not agree with him here, and that is one reason why we have been anxious for the steamer to come, hoping the change to New Orleans may benefit him. We have urged and urged him to let the others go on here and he and myself try Florida, but home he will go. He thinks he ought to be there; we have been too long away.
Now really he ought to be the one, if any, to remain behind, but you cannot convince him of the fact, and as we have been so long away I think I shall return with the rest of the party. We do not reach home until the second week in March and that will be the worst month. If Bob would be persuaded to remain longer for his own good, I should press the matter, but he seems to think the house is all going wrong and he must be there. Often wonders what Allison could mean when he certainly ought to understand his ideas by this time about certain things, the front hall for instance-- If he saw it was too small a landing we had much rather do without a closet altogether, as Robert wrote to Henry Burt.
Clara is well - all the rest of us now in fact but Bob. You precious old dear, you. I wish we could send you a drawing of all our bare arms that you might see p 122 that we are all right. None of them took--- not even Elizabeth’s--- Ah--- I ought to except Bob’s. His did, but is now quite well. Seek your couch in peace, Mama dear, we haven’t any of us got the small pox.
Henry Kip is going to Matanzas this afternoon to see the caves and other sights, returning tomorrow afternoon. Mr. Springer of the Consulate accompanied him. We do not like to lose the opportunity and it seems a shame to leave the island without seeing all the sights. What have we been doing this week after sending off the letters. Wednesday we heard of a famous church we had not seen, so, jumping into a volante Bob, Henry, and I started off to see it, the church of Merced. It is
one of the oldest in the city, built by the Dominicans first, and afterwards refitted. It is a very imposing building. A number of columns of marble support the roof, flooring of marble and stairs also, and various life-sized statues of marble adorned with most exquisite embroidery, silks, and satins. In a temple of white marble, and above the altar and covered with a curtain (which was drawn aside for us) was a statue of the Virgin Mary, literally covered with precious stones of every kind. p 123 And the rays of golden glory above her head; a very dazzling sight to us even and to those poor benighted heathen. I do not wonder with all these Jesuitical tricks, they believe it real religion.
We have spent Wednesday and Thursday evenings upon the Prado, and listening to the beautiful music and watching the countless numbers of people who throng the plaza. At nine the band ceases to play and we walk across the street to a cafe for some of their unknown ices. We have to remain in the dark as to what we are eating, but I think none of their ices or sweets are quite as nice as our own. Really - home cannot be improved upon. We have a great number of calls during the day for our circle of acquaintances seems to extend. Generally after breakfast, which we take between 9 and 10, we drive down town if we have any shopping or calls to make, and hurry as one may, we do not seem to get back before three - then a short nap and dress for dinner and engagements for the evening. Friday night we had several acquaintances calling, among them the Downs family. Robert had a “petite soufer” for them -- had a very pleasant evening. They have made p 124 our visit extremely pleasant, and we feel under countless obligations to them. Clara has been exceedingly occupied with a Mr. James for a flirtation. I should say it was going rather far particularly since the young gentleman leaves for Spain and not intending to return until next winter. Bob and I have both spoken to her which she quite resents, giving us to understand she is quite independent and will brook no interference in her affairs, which is very far from our intention - traveling with us we do feel a little responsibility which she thinks is quite unnecessary. Understand me, we do not think the young gentleman to be at all serious, and therefore wish her to be more discreet, but as she very justly observes, we have done our duty by speaking to her, and that is enough. It certainly has not contributed toward making this last week very agreeable, and we are congratulating ourselves that we are leaving him behind on Monday, and as I have not a very great faith in Clara’s constancy, it will not hurt anybody away from here, but it is decidedly unpleasant just now. People cannot, when traveling, be quite so independent of one another - and that other a pretty young lady p125 who should learn to be discreet.
We have been to see the Governor’s palace but it don’t amount to much - very large, barren and bare.
I am glad that you are pleased with our letters, and that they give you some idea of what we have been doing. I always feel, however, as if I had failed to convey to you half I wish to say. Please say to Lottie how much pleasure her letters gave me, and I have the leaves all pressed but cannot tell her the names of one. I would like to write to Louise Wilkenson, Jeanie King, and others as I first thought I could, but I always feel as if there were so many relatives, who ought to be kept posted, and to whom I do write that I really have not the time to attend to those outside. Aunt Maria and Charlotte, I try to write to you often. Please give my love to all and thank them for their remembrances. I am very glad you attended to Mollie’s bonnet. i know she did need one indeed. You say it looks well enough with the old velvet, if not, get new. You may be sure, quite sure, anything you may think it best to fix, dear mother, will be all right to me; and I can never half tell you how much your loving kindness is appreciated.
Dear Eva, we read both your letters and sigh for more. What a lovely time all must have had. p126 at the old settlers festival, from your glowing descriptions. Henry Kip has once in a while exclaimed he would like to have been at home to enjoy this or that, and truly we have all echoed the wish. How very hard it is for us to realize the cold and snow which you are having. Although it has been colder here than for a long time back, in the middle of the day it brings the moisture to one’s brow, I assure you. Oh, if I could begin to describe to you the moonlight nights we are having, they are so clear you can read with the most perfect ease, and to take a drive as we often do upon the Cerro, and see the shadows of the tall palms cast upon the ground, seeming like so many giants, and the stone houses illuminated, which you can see at great distances makes a magic picture. A fair is being held here; I told you in my last that we went to it, well - it still continues and they have made $300,000! - What do you think of that? Expect to make still more. Everything is contributed and sold at $.20 a taper, as we called them, and half, if not more, blanks. Henry and Bob went on board the “Liberty” last night to see what accommodations we could get - Eight two passengers! They did not give us a glowing description of the boat either. No deck of any account, state rooms very small. We do not anticipate an elegant trip. It is two weeks before another steamer. In the present state of the funds, think we had better get where they can be replenished. Sat upon our balcony last evening, bright moonlight - entertaining Mr. McCormack of new Orleans, who is now here, and whom Clara met in Cleveland last summer - Also Messrs James and Wheeler. Bob brought home from the city the greatest quantity of preserves and jellies. Where in the mischief I am to pack them is more than I can conceive, but you know those things will come very handy. Elizabeth’s mother must have great affection for her; she has not heard once, and it is only through our letters that she hears of her children, Mollie evidently has not been as well a winter before. You must treat her well, and I must find out what you do in order to succeed as you have done in helping her in such good health - If only I could smuggle through some of the Irish linen they have here - ten shillings a yard 2 1/2 wide, and oh! so fine for sheeting, I mean, but it can’t be did. I’ll send this by the steamer Columbia. We think it may reach you in a day or two sooner than if we wanted until reaching new Orleans. After receiving this you cannot write to us again, for we may have left, and if we stop over anywhere it will be only a short time. You see we shall be a week in new Orleans, and it takes about ten days from there for us to reach home, which brings us into the second week in March. Bob insists he is going to leave me behind, but I think not!
Love to all the relatives, Whew! Wouldn’t Auntie Ruth be comfortable here today. Hot it is, and no mistake. I am writing in sack and skirt, Clara has gone out to ride with Mr. James, Bob down town - Elizabeth reading. Sunday night you see it is, but one can scarcely realize such a thing as the Sabbath here - The very last item I can tell you about ourselves. I hope we shall reach New Orleans safely. the ship is very crowded, and loaded with sugar. Love to Eva and Dick, Willie and Henry.
All yours,
Sara.
New Orleans, Sunday Feb. 2nd.
Dearest folks. Here we are safe and sound in this city and heartily glad to get here I do assure you.
My last letter p129 dated from Havana Sunday night the 17th inst. and mailed by Mrs. Springer the 20th on the steamer Columbia has reached you ere this: My dear little girl’s came very near being lost. Her father left the sheets upon the table a moment before enclosing in the envelope and it was whisked off the table, and not discovered until we had got to bed, by Clara, so as I told you, so up I jumped to enclose it. If we were going to the bottom of the deep blue sea, I wanted my baby to have a few last lines.
We got up at 6 o’clock, Monday, in the 8th inst., took only a cup of coffee and started for the “Liberty” which was anchored very far down in the Bay. We found her decks crowded with passengers, and the cry was “still they come.” Every single portion of that steamer was packed literally - we had on board too, the forty thieves (or thirty-nine Arabs, just the same), and steamed out of the harbor of Havana, 280 souls, a small propeller, mind you, not like the “Morro Castle” by a long way. We feared we should have to go without our baggage, for it did not arrive until the last moment, although it had been sent down an hour or
p 130 more before, but if one wants anything done in Cuba it should be commenced the day before. Our staterooms were the very last in the boat: horrible! So much so that Bob and I occupied the cabin floor, together with about twenty others. You can judge how crowded it was, but it was the only steamer for two weeks or more and so go we would. It was “Liberty” or death. We were very brave all of us, at first remaining upon deck - The sea was still very high from the late storm. After a couple of hours we (that is Clara, and then Elizabeth, and then I) gave in. Of course Bob had to take care of me, and my! if I did not make amends for not being very sick coming out! Why! I would just faint in between. It was horrid, horrid. Deliver me from going to sea again. The next day, Tuesday, they got us all on deck. We then commenced to get better, and Wednesday, felt quite bright and delighted, thinking we should get into New Orleans late that night. But it was not to be. A very heavy fog came on by dark and although we had nearly reached the bar, it could not be crossed so late. There had been an accident a few nights before - two steamers had run into each other and now, none were allowed to cross at night and many were aground. It was a very long tedious night and had to endure patiently, our discomforts were so great; but morning came at last. A driving rain storm, which it was hoped would dispel the fog, but not until eleven o’clock when we again started. We went over the bar. Oh! How thankful we were - three steamers aground, and I don’t know how many ships, all the passengers upon their decks surveying as with envious eyes, weren’t we glad?
After entering the river, it was lovely, the farm houses and groves of oranges and magnolias were a pleasant sight to gaze upon, winding in and out of the crooked river. We passed the forts and thought of Admiral Farragut and fleet. Our opera glasses did duty - the day passed very quickly but we were very disappointed to hear from the Captain that it was impossible for us to reach the city until three or four o’clock Friday morning. Clara, Bob, Henry and many others decided to sit up, and if it was possible for us to get a coach, and find a hotel open at so late an hour, leave the boat even at that time, for otherwise we could not land before night, and another night on board was too much to endure.
I lay down on one of the sofas, and was awakened by the clamor as we approached the levee. The custom house officer came aboard in the afternoon, and weren’t we in a twitter? Bob hurried us into our staterooms as we neared the levee, and we fastened on our extra bustles, or side bustles, in no time. Was that not an idea! But land! How I quaked! Bob then informed the captain and Purser we were going ashore. They had been very kind to us all through the trip. The officer would not however let us even take our satchels ashore so we carried our night clothes, playfully offered the officer our tooth brushes if he would like them, but not our extra skirts, and escorted Clara by the Purser, and I by the Captain, and followed by Bob, with Elizabeth and Henry, in the very face of the officers and two detectives, we went ashore, got into a carriage and drove off to the St. Louis Hotel. Didn’t we draw a long breath, oh my! We succeeded in getting comfortable quarters - It was Paradise indeed p133 to us - the luxury of a carpet was almost unknown. I am continually forgetting that I need not dive for my slippers, before getting out of bed, the first thing, and the bed and the pillows instead of a wad of cotton tucked into one’s ear. I assure you those we have had are not much larger. We had a lovely sleep - Bob was obliged to go down early for the baggage to be examined, but all say we were very fortunate in having a lenient officer this time, and a friend of the steward’s, whom Bob had propitiated, so our trunks were passed with only one being opened. * All were opened, but only one was examined (RPH). Friday we breakfasted in the restaurant connected with the hotel - the St. Louis Rotunda - (well?) how beautiful it is; that frescoing seems like marble - We admired it very much. We took our first walk up Canal St. How ashamed you would have been of us, staring like country greenies in every window, and the “ohs” and “ahs” could not be counted, I am sure. We went in the evening to the Southern Bazaar - you might have seen it noticed in the paper - for the relief of Southern soldiers wounded in the war Whew! Secesh was no name for it as little blue iwas to be seen as could possibly be excluded. It was P very tastefully and beautifully decorated like all other fairs but all the first young ladies served as waiters. Among them Miss Semmes the pirate’s daughter. We had, shall I call it, the pleasure of being served with clear punch at her hands, plenty of diamonds, but the dress of the ladies, with some exceptions, very common. I forgot to tell you that on our walk in the morning we met Captain Sturgeon coming to the hotel to see if we had arrived. We wrote to him some weeks ago we were coming. He gave us quite a mail, but one saw, by the papers, there were other letters for us, but having forgotten it was Washington’s Birthday, which also was quite excusable, as you would not know the fact, except by the closing of public offices, we did not get them until the next day when quite a batch was received from Buffalo and Rochester - one from Mr. Sibley, very long and interesting and very much appreciated for it is a rare thing for him to trouble himself much about the relatives. It was very kind in him. Saturday we went out shopping and visiting about all the stones, I guess. Next Captain Sturgeon who introduced us to Lieut. King who was with him and who, they say, is engaged to Ida Haven, they walked about with us, I like p135 New Orleans so much - far better than Havana - not quite so warm - more like spring and spring violets are to be bought on every corner - their perfume is very delicious - ah! There is so much going on here I don’t wonder Wrile (?) liked it so well. We went to see John Owens in “Married Life” and “Solon Shingle” at the St. Charles Theater, which about used me up. This morning (Sunday) Clara and Henry, together with several of our fellow passengers, went to the french market, getting up at 6 o’clock. We were quite too tired to join them. They also went to the cathedral. Bob and I, after breakfasting, took a drive on the Matarie Road, through Common St. - Home again passing Greenwood Cemetery. The only difference I see here from Havana is that many seem to have a family tomb by itself instead of one of those niches, but all above ground. We also went to Jackson Square and the french market - came home to dress for dinner at four, and have spent the evening singing psalms and talking, quite a number of us, I am very much better indeed, but Eva, you forget it is not quite so much exertion, as we have had to do all these places, and also about them, as it would p136 be to walk; so although it sounds as if, when we write home we were going continually, it is really not so. We have plenty of time to rest, or have had. Bob seems better today, has a better night, and coughs less. He got such a satisfactory letter from Henry Bunt, that he seems to have felt more at ease ever since. I was so glad. I shall never forget Hen’s kindness. I want Bob to stay a week or two longer and send Elizabeth home with Clara. I don’t think but what that would be proper and right. Henry would see to her well - Elizabeth being married and steady, I don’t think there would be anything out of the way in her going back from here under Henry’s charge, do you? If Bob will stay. Since he got Hen’s letter, he seemed to be more willing, but he may not do so - Nothing’s decided upon as yet.
Monday, Feb. 25th.
Bob was up early to get a box for us at the theatre, to hear the famous Ristorii. We expect to go this evening. Our plans for today were all put an end to by the rain. We were going to drive out on the Shell Road to Lake p137 Pontchartrain, and dine there. We shall go tomorrow, however. Have been out walking all the morning, quite a party of us.
We are going to see the Arabs tomorrow evening. We want Clara to see all she can of New Orleans before going back. Bob decided to remain a short time longer with me, so we sent home Elizabeth. It is a useless expense having her remain, and Henry, Clara, and she will leave Thursday night in the steamer “W.S. Arthur,” quite new, goes to St. Louis. Bob will fix everything for them as nicely as possible. Calculating as we do, they will reach home March 12th at noon. Elizabeth, of course, is going home to her Mother’s until I need her again - I hope my little darling is well, and quite over her cold. Dear little Lena, how sick she must have been. I shall miss Clara very much indeed, and quite long to go back with her, but Bob has been improving the last day or two, and sleeps so comfortably, that I think it would be a pity until he is a little stronger. I feel quite well. Clara’s penchant for Mr. James seems not to have affected her greatly - out of sight, out of mind. We are all so afraid she will think seriously of anyone, that I suppose we take exception when she becomes at all intimate with any gentleman.
This morning Mrs. Peacock called upon us. Eliza Donohue is quite sick, ague in the face. We are going there also tomorrow. She was very cordial, inquired after Aunty Bert and you, and wished to hear all the Buffalo News. Dear Mollie, you are a precious good little girl, I hope, and how you must have grown, to have all your dresses let out. Well I should think Grandma had gone through a complete renovation of your wardrobe. Clara will have lots to tell you I suppose. I shall write again when they leave. How lonely I shall be! Ristori is stopping here at the house, so we have had an opportunity of seeing her, face to face - quite a large, fine-looking woman. She plays Queen Elizabeth tonight.
We surveyed with great interest the first flag which was hauled down by the rebels, and now floating over the custom house; also the window from which the traitor was hung. We shall see everything, never fear. Bob is hurrying me so I shall have to cut short my letter with much left unsaid, for this must go at four o’clock. I think Bob’s decision to remain was made entirely after receiving Henry’s comforting letter that all was going on well. Now, give love to one and all of the relatives. Kisses for my own little girl, and Lena. I carry them in my heart always. Love to yourselves, and from us all.
Aff. yours, Sara
I do hope Henry and Wille are both better. Too bad, isn’t it boys, to be shut up in the house; I sympathize with you. p140
New Orleans, Mch 1, 1867
My precious people all-
I commence like a regular proclamation, don’t I? But I write to one and all of you. We received both Ev’s and Henry’s letters, and glad am I when I get news from home, if it is only one day later for it tells me you are all well, and then I feel so much happier. Now I wrote so recently that I’ve not much to tell you. We drove out on the Shell Road Tuesday to Lake Pontchartrain, took dinner in the same room that Willie and Bob dined in when he was here before - Went to hear Maggie Mitchell of the “Varieties” in the evening. Wednesday Clara and I were out shopping all the morning. I guess we have visited nearly every store on Canal Street. We went out to see Eliza Donohoe after dinner. She lives on Prytania St. and such a ways out. However we had a pleasant drive and an opportunity of seeing more of the city. We had a pleasant call - She was very cordial her house is very cozy. We got back so late that there was no time to go anywhere that evening. Thursday, Clara and Elizabeth packed up. We thought they would go on the “W.S. Arthur,” but it was not in, and so it was decided to take the “Continental.” We were rather sorry for it came in the day they left, and they might have waited and gone today, but the ticket could not be changed. We fixed her as comfortably as we could, and I do hope she will be all right, reaching home without any accident. I am glad Elizabeth is with her, for I imagine she will be of more help than Henry Kips. Blessings brighten as they take their flight. I have not half appreciated the comfort of Clara’s society, and now I miss her so sadly. I would give worlds for one hour to tell her how much I think of her. We were always going or doing something. I dare say too I’ve been awful peevish lots of times. Oh dear! If one could be good always, how that Old Adam, born in the flesh will come out. I am horrid lonely, and would willingly have gone back with Clara, but that Bob is improving so, and it is still so cold at home, Eva says - Clara will stay a day in St. Louis and Chicago, the delay was unavoidable on account of the time the boat and the trains got in. I hope she will get home safe. I expect to worry, Mother, like you, until I hear. She felt bad too at leaving me. It is too bad when a party breaks up, that have been together some time, but Clara had already staid ten weeks instead of six as Bob calculated. The steamer’s delay made some difference, so her expenses are a little more. She has made, too, a number of purchases.
Bob gave Clara the amount but didn’t have time to take the items off from his book. He encloses them now.
I’ve been out to the Barracks today to see Col. Sturgeon, and major Smith and wife, who called upon me. It is a lovely spot. The Col. was officer of the day (or post) I believe. We had cake
and wine. It is three miles out, so we reached the city again about 5 o’clock, too late for dinner at the hotel - so we went to Relangers Ladies’ Restaurant and had a nice little dinner. Bob is writing on the other side of the table in his shirt sleeves, for hot does not express the weather here; and strange to say, until today ladies and gentleman have been wearing heavy clothing. I had forgotten I did not tell you we went to see Ristori Monday night in her great role of Queen Elizabeth, had the felicity of seeing those wonderful dresses, and diamonds, and indeed she and they are magnificent. I must leave the description to Clara. We enjoyed it hugely -
Mrs. Donohoe called today while we were out, leaving an invitation for us to dine with her on Sunday at five. Of course we shall go, - Shall have to to acknowledge the civility - but it is a bore to go out to dine. We are anticipating attending the Mardi Gras Ball on Tuesday night p144 at the “Varieties” and the “St. Charles Theaters.” We shall probably leave as soon as we get Henry’s check or draft which Bob telegraphed for. Expect to take the Lake Pontchartrain Steamer for Mobile, hence to Savannah, Charleston, Atlanta, Petersburg, Richmond, Washington, Baltimore, New York, home. A much longer trip, you see. And we shall stay for a day or two in each place. We may, however, change our route somewhat. At any rate if, after you receive this you will write to us at Charleston directly, we can hear from home, and the fact of not being able to hear for some little time, making me rather unhappy, so much can happen in that time until I can hear from you that all is well. Direct simply to Robert P Hayes, Charleston, South Carolina. Elizabeth was glad to go, and yet sorry to leave. If you want anything done, don’t hesitate to call on her. She is coming back to me when I return. Now is the house pleasant; Is it nice? I think I’ve been inside of p145 it, things look very differently on paper you know than when they are finished. Now that closet upstairs - if it interferes with the landing for Mercy’s sake, have Henry have it torn down and plastered before we get back. Bob wrote to him to do so if in any way interferes, for we have closet room enough without that. We hope he will attend to it. There were to be silver plated hinges and knobs and locks downstairs. Bob spoke to Henry, Allison, and Will Anderson. Porcelain upstairs --- My dear little girl, how well she keeps and all owing to your good wholesome food - Dear Mother - and her warm bed at night. I hope she is good and obedient and does not trouble you too much. Believe me we appreciate all your kindness most truly. Dear little Lena seems to be the sick one just now, but summer will soon come - the first day of spring is already here. Only think what a winter we have escaped. I hope Maria had a nice time and how is Auntie Burt. Henry’s ankle still seems to trouble him. I hope it is not a bad sprain. Will, I can sympathize with you in the stye line. Dick, my bonnie boy, you are known all over the country, I verily believe. The clerk of this house, Mr. McComber, used to live in Cleveland. I believe it is owing to you we have such a nice room. We talk of changing, however, to the St. Charles next week. It is so far over here, so out of the way of everything. I am somewhat disappointed in New Orleans - everything looks so old - only Canal St. that amounts to anything. No handsome residences as in other cities - Well, give my love to one and all of the relatives and friends.
Col. Sturgeon talks a great deal of Louise Wilkenson - tell her there is something going on that I have not heard of. Do write, dear people, so that we can hear at Charleston how you all are. Henry’s letter was splendid. Eva, you are real good to write so regularly. Mother has not written in some time, but she thinks, I suppose, one will answer. Bob sends much love to all, Oh! Eva, wouldn’t it be elegant if you could get to housekeeping. Jolly indeed.
Aff Yours, Sara
p147 New Orleans, Thursday Mar 12 1867
Sunday, Mch 3rd - A foggy 1867 misty day - rose very late, making up for lost time - Bob and I sleep so soundly. Had such a pleasant dinner party at Mrs. Donohoe’s. A Mr. Manuel, and Mrs. Peacock were the only guests besides ourselves. A beautiful dinner and one which we did justice to. Almost two months, yes quite that, since we were inside of a home. Mrs. Peacock wishes me to tell Aunty Burt, Mother, how delightful it is to rest - to get up in the morning with no care - She is enjoying her visit here greatly.
Monday, up quite early and started out for places to see the fireman's procession pass. Went to Belayer’s Restaurant - Capitol place. They all formed beneath it, on Canal St. Engines and carts were decorated most beautifully, and in quite a novel manner. I must not forget that I may tell some of the gentleman at home, it was so very pretty. The streets were crowded. While waiting for them to form Bob and I were highly amused at a little boy’s remark “Oh mamma, see that fireman with a Yankee Flag.” “Hush! Hush! My dear, we are all Yankees now.” It is astonishing, the intensely bitter feeling they have here against Northerners; it hardly seems like our own country. Everyone says, “Oh! You should have seen this or that before the war” or “Yes, but it was very different before the war. “ I have seen Rebel Generals and Colonels without number. Generals Bragg and Johnston are staying at this hotel - They have been making grand preparations here all day for the ball to be given here. A gentleman having died at the St. Charles, it is given here at the St. Louis -
We were also invited to Gen. Sheridan's to attend the German - had two inviitations, one came, through the Donohoe’s - We would have liked very much to attend, but being full dress, what had I to wear. Oh Mother dear, that moiré antique of mine might better have been in the ocean, or store, for never have I needed it. If my dressing gown had only been left at home, and I had brought more suitable clothes with me.
We went to see Jefferson in Rip Van Winkle, at the Varieties Theatre, and oh! it was so touching and beautiful - after which with the addition of my white lace shawl, to my toilet I took a sit down place in the Rotunda, and was a spectator of the Ball. I did not discover that the ladies were so very poor here. Certainly there was no lack of diamonds.
p150. A great many strangers were present. Carlo Pitti led the orchestra, and the music was splendid. I should think there were about eight hundred present, some extremely beautiful dripes (sp?). Ristori and husband and daughter were present. I stood directly by the former’s side, for a long time, and had there a very near view of her. She is a very handsome woman, and her daughter is so lovely. Ristori wore a pink moiré antique and gold band in her hair - her daughter a white silk. The supper was given in the larger dining room, well lighted, and all seated - a very brilliant open blaze. It broke up about four o’clock.
Bob has met here an old friend of his from Providence R.I. Mrs. Isabelle Manton, who married Morris Morgan. His uncle owns several plantations here, and they are spending the winter on one of them. They came down to the city to enjoy the carnival. How strange it is, one meets friends everywhere.
Tuesday Mardi Gras
I imagine it is very seldom a Northerner has the opportunity of seeing this famous day in New Orleans, a day of mirth and jolliness which it is almost impossible to describe. From a very early hour the streets are thronged with maskers, and the crowd increases towards the afternoon. Some on foot, others in carriages and on horseback. Bob and I, inspite of the crowded streets walked out to survey and see all we could. We were vastly amused. Passing Christ Church, we noticed quite a little crowd, so we thought we would step in and see what was going on. Besides, we wished to see inside of the Church. We were hardly in before a bridal procession arrived. We took seats and waited until the ceremony was over. There were four brides maids all dressed very beautifully - friends in full dress also. Married in the Episcopal way. The only difference was that after the service they adjourned to the vestry room to register their names. Who they were we have not been able to find out even through the papers except that the man was “Nicholas” and “Mary” for so the clergyman addressed them. At six o’clock Canal St. was literally packed, about eight thousand persons extending three blocks from St. Charles St. - Balconies and windows were filled. For years back there has been a procession here called the “Mistick Kreme.” Between eight and ten o’clock they parade through some of the principal streets, each year taking a new route, and starting from a different direction. They finally bring up at the Varieties Theater where they go through a programme of their own. Special invitations are given, none to be bought, and the entire lower part of the Theatre is given up to ladies - gentlemen are not allowed to sit with them. Full toilettes - you can imagine how very beautiful it is - row after row of very elegantly draped ladies, unbroken by a single black coat. A sight worth gazing upon - the former, I mean. No one knows who the “Mistick Kreme” are really. But they are the first gentlemen of New Orleans and form what is called the Pickwick Club. However they are so many (150 in number) that they cannot be designated that such and such took part in it. We concluded that we had rather see the performance from the outside, than to be jammed and crushed for about two hours before getting into the theatre - so we went up to Canal St. and after some financing managed to secure a stand point on a balcony near Royal St. Bob had applied for the place early in the morning, but even with that precaution, it was no easy task. From there we had a fine view. Although, shortly after we had settled ourselves, a fine drizzling rain began to come down. The spectators, including ourselves, were not to be disheartened and held out bravely until the procession made its appearance. In front, behind and on the sides of the procession were frames of wood, carried on men’s shoulders, and filled with torches set into them at regular distances, making as you see, a most brilliant light. Then inside this barricade came, first the musicians, then a large placard stating that this was the “Triumph of Epicures” - a regular dinner party in effigy - a bottle of absinthe, then sherry, another with oysters all over him, one large oyster representing his head. See, I send you a bill of fare, and you must judge. Now all these were represented as you saw those champagne bottles and beer mugs at the Liedertafel Carnival. Here p154 the most immense silver knife and fork, and candelabra, etc. A monstrous ox, garlanded, and drawn on while moved along; and a tremendous great gourmand. It was a greeting with shouts of laughter. We saw it pass twice - a most elaborate thing. Now keep the programme and the tickets which are very beautiful, and which Bob wants to show to the Liedertafel - It was rare fun - that Tableaux - surely that Gourmand must have dreamed up all those dishes - such a monstrous size and they all come out in the same order in which they would be placed on a regular dinner table.
Funny enough! - At twelve o’clock, after their performances in the Theatre, all of these maskers quietly slip away, no one knows where, (*as their clubroom is under the Theatre it is not difficult to fathom their mysterious disappearance RPH) and the ball commences, and is kept up until morning. There are balls everywhere over the city - A great day. p156 I assure you, it was, and I was so sorry Clara was not here to enjoy it too. I miss her very, very much and Elizabeth too. I suppose they have not yet reached St. Louis, and oh! how I hope they had a pleasant trip.
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