Arrival

January 3rd, 1867

And so our good ship has left her moorings and we are really on our way.  - Chas. Hayes - Geo. and Chas. Sibley - Al Lathrop, Thad Hamilton and Albert Barnard saw us off and waved their handkerchiefs as long as we were in sight.  Not a cloud in the blue sky, and the sea quite calm.  I stayed on deck till near four o’clock and then as we commenced to feel the motion of the ship went below.  Clara  and the rest went down to dinner but I felt no appetite.  Retired about six o’clock.  How they would laugh at home and think I was improving.  The staterooms are small but comfortable.  Still my delievermust know, I miss the holiday.  Bah! what a night. I slept some, have not as yet been sick. But Clara and Elizabeth, Whew!  Words cannot describe the latter -  It is fearfully cold - still it is better they say to be on deck if possible.  So here goes . Such a tumbling up stairs one never did see, but one really does feel better in the open air.  The chair Bob got in New York is so easy. What with three pair of woolen stocking and shawls without number I might be warm -- We are out of sight of land, how strange it is, and how perfectly helpless one feels if anything should happen to us.  I really enjoyed the lunch today.  Sandwiches and pickles, glass of sherry.  Expect to cascade, as “Bob” calls it, but was really faint, not being able to eat anything but crackers since we left. The night was much more pleasant.  I was so tired I slept soundly.

Saturday                                                                                              p 12

Have become acquainted with many of the passengers, and as for Clara, she has beaux innumerable.  She keeps up with good courage, is horribly sick every morning until she gets on deck, and as for Elizabeth she is of no manner of use to me, and how she does complain,  Bob has had to dress me and get me on deck every day.  I am very weak and it must be because I am buffeted about so much. How strange I’ve not yet been sea-sick.  I feel uncomfortably _sick_-cannot go dress to meals. The stewardess is very kind.  There is a Spanish family aboard, going in the cabin, all sick.  It is enough to make anyone so to see them.  The horrible little green canteens going up on the shelf.  I wonder if I shall have reason to use you ---.

It is so rough today, I feel as if I might. Mercy!  How the ship rolls, first down, down on one side, and then on the other.  A cracker dipped in water had been my subsistence today.  What a night.  The waves dash clear over the smoke stack, and everything in the room slides back and forth.  It is a perfect Babel.  I feel so afraid and bewildered, poor Bob spent most of the night consoling me. Clara staggered in consoling herself. Oh! if the morning would only come, I thought, and fervently prayed. The lights turn so dim. We lit our tapers and it is some consolation to be able to see.  How fearfully sick I have been, one does not care what becomes of them at such a time. Poor mother would give up in despair.  All of the ladies on hand are sick.  Bob keeps well and so does Henry, the latter thought he should be very sick - but they have not missed a meal.  Clara is wonderful -she pretends to take a little nap each day and them comes up on deck again all right.  How glad I am each day brings us nearer our destination on Sunday. ----

Oh the lovely, lovely day, Clara and Elizabeth have appeared as bright and beaming as possible and I shall try and get up by noon and go on deck, but dare not take anything to eat more than the cracker and water. I find we are all very much frightened last night, but this morning the sun shines brightly  although there is yet quite a sea. We see an occasional school of porpoises, and the sea gulls have been performing as one since we left New York.

I am snugly tucked in my chair reading my prayers for Epiphany, and think of the dear ones at home.  Bob and Henry are smoking. Clara talking with a Mr. Clausen who seems to have traveled everywhere over the world, and makes himself extremely entertaining.  Bob is far from well, he walked so much in New York as to strain his knee which makes him quite lame and also brought our tea kettles. Unfortunately there are no remedies on board for him to use but cold water.  But I really think a sea voyage seems to be beneficial to him.  Henry Kips is excellent company - funny as he can be - and seems to have made many friends.  The captain is very good to us, together with the purser “Mr. Alberts”.  We had letters to both of them and had the seats of honor assigned to us next to the Purser.  All but myself have (used) them, although Clara has not been down to every meal.  We have oranges in abundance on board, how often Clara says she wishes Mother had some of them.  We took a nap in the afternoon.  The ship swells dreadfully now.  Managed to get on deck before nightfall and glad indeed that we had but one day and night more.  Ah! The beauties of the sea I fear I do not appreciate.  I think if we should go down under those cruel waves which are rolling toward us, some mountains high.  We have concluded to go below.  Our ship sinks so far down first on one side and then the other, it is almost impossible to sit without sliding down.   So here’s to bed again -- Ah! what an awful crash. I scream to Bob.  He insists upon it something is the matter, but the engines stopped, and he concluded when the state room doors commenced to open he had better get up, and so he dressed and went on deck.                          p 17

Monday, 1/2 past five.  It is quite dark.  Find we are ashore on a point of rock, and many miles from shore, but oh! how fortunate it is a clear night and calm. We can get to shore without danger.  How the ship reels upon the rock.* We have swung clear around, our bow towards New York again. We have all concluded to dress. It is very strange,  We have taken soundings, and find we draw lighter (?) feet of water.  It seems to be only this little point, we were steaming as near the shore as possible, so as to make good time.  After being on the snag an hour and a half we succeeded in getting off without trying.  The Captain is very much chagrined, he is a regular old tar and asked me this morning upon seeing me up so early if that fish we ran over this morning woke me up, laughed and said the fish was only taking off a little beard, that gentleman appearing just then newly shaven.  But the funniest incident was Van Rice’s, ( we have that celebrity with his wife on board) inquiring by Mike, the waiter what was the matter? The latter insisted upon it - nothing at all - but Mr. Rice knew better - “ hell!”  says he,  “you know they’ve stopped to fix a bolt which is loose in the machinery.”  “ Oh! you beggar, you are lying?  Are we not aground?”  “Well your honor, if you must know, she is just a little bit”.  However all were very much frightened, and all ready for breakfast in good season.  The awnings have been put up on deck, and really this is the only day that has been warm; how much I enjoy it.  They say they seldom have such cold weather the first day out.

       We have been in sight of the coast of Florida all day.  How strange the tall palm trees look to us.  We had a long lunch on deck for I cannot yet go down stairs and eat anything. A glass of champagne made me feel quite nice.  We get no time to read.  It does seem as if they only eat.  Think of coffee or tea if you wish brought to you in bed; breakfast at nine, lunch at one, dinner at four, tea at seven.  To those who can eat it must be very nice  but I’ve not yet liked my sea appetite.  The last night on board ship.  Tomorrow we shall have reached our haven and I shall be more than thankful.  We sat up much later than usual, some reading and music given us by others---

Tuesday                                                                                          p 21

Passed the Morro Castle at seven this morning with firing of cannon and colors flying, steamed down the harbor.  Were kept waiting by the health officers nearly two hours.  Surrounded by the most perfect little gondolas. I ever saw represented on paper.  Every imaginable color and decorated with cushions and fringe.  Bob and Henry have gone ashore to see about our rooms, and it is quite exciting to us to see the luggage let down by tackle into the boats and a gangway lowered for the passengers.  We are anchored in the bay, and have to land in these small boats.  We are now the only ones left on board.  The captain insists upon our breakfasting with him, and not to wait until our gentlemen returned, so I have taken my first and only meal with him on board. We landed about eleve.

They opened our trunks at the custom house.  That did not trouble us very much.  We entered a coach and drove up here to the “Ingleterra”. Oh! The lovely trees and green grass and balmy air!  Clara and I are in (heaven).  We cannot express ourselves. The Hotel is situated on the Pasio, in front of which is a large park filled with trees and fountains.  Ladies have headed with only veils hiding. And Negro women walking with long dresses. My! If we had a yard more and did to our dresses they would come somewhere near the length of the Cuban ladies.  We breakfasted first - oranges, bananas, pines - then white sweet potatoes, steak, soft shelled crabs, eggs, fried bananas - other foreign dishes.  Claret to commence with - coffee last.

       We have front rooms on a balcony which overlooks the Paseo. Think of being in a church for the ceilings are very near as high. Marble floors,  (you see we can dream we dwelt in marble halls), a tremendous looking glass, a brass bedstead with muslin curtains and cotton lace, cane sofa and chairs, lattice doors opening upon the balcony, washstand in the corner, no windows - only these doors.  I could not stand the bed. They had to Americanize it somewhat for me, put on two mattresses and blankets to make it soft, a strip of carpeting in front of the bed will give you a perfect description of our rooms.