Cuba Title page

Cuba and the South

In 1867

A diary of letters written by Sara and Robert Hayes to their family members at home in Buffalo, New York

                                                               Buffalo, Dec 29, 1866

My Dear “Aunties”-

For this letter must answer for both.  I received your letter, and dear Aunt Catherine, thank you very much for your lovely Christmas gift, it happened to be the very article I needed, and which mother has been trying to get knit for me - “Bob” was so sorry, he was not able to be with you Friday eve- but went to New York Christmas morn, and returned Thursday, about used up. He had some trouble about passports, not supposing they were necessary, only for those going abroad. And so were obliged to send to Washington.  And another thing, he has had so many last things to think of in the way of his house which I am very thankful will be off his mind for a few weeks- together with the office work, that I even have scarcely seen him until night came. I did not intend to leave Dear Aunt Maria without a few parting words, I knew you would be very anxious, to hear all about us, and our plans- but of course have had many little details to attend to also, and wished to be able to sit down, and write without being interrupted--We leave tomorrow night,  intended to this eve, but having so much trouble about our passage, has delayed us.  Our staterooms are not what we would wish, but I learned today, a “Mr. Allen” whom we know, is the owner of the line. I intend to send our card to him and possibly we may fare better-  Mollie will remain with her “Grandma” so I have half my heart behind,  but the dear little girl will be better off, I am quite convinced from what Mrs. S L R Watson told us, and God grant she may be kept in good health, until our return--- We sail Thursday next, at noon in the “Morro Castle”. “Bob” will return in February for a few weeks. Henry Bent will also superintend the house while he is absent.  Our friends have all been very kind, during any sickness, and I scarcely know how to thank them, for the last three days, almost every one I know have been in to bid me good bye - it is very gratifying to feel you are  _______.

       “Augusta” was in this morning, says Aunt Mary is about the same.  It will be very pleasant having both “Henry” and “Clara” with us. I dread the sea voyage very much, but “Dr’s Bull & Foster” have provided us with a case of remedies and I trust they will be beneficial Give much love to “Dr.” Henry and Lithi-  and earnestly do I hope we may be spared to return to Mollie and our home - both of us quite restored to health. I commence to think I shall be the well one, and “Bob” the invalid. With much love to all I bid you an affectionate good bye -

                                       Yours---

                                               Sara

January 1st, 1867

 New York

My precious ones all--

I know you are anxious to hear from us, and so do not wait until tomorrow.  Our ride here was very tedious to me, I did not sleep (one wink even-- We partook of your lunch dear mother and all enjoyed it heartily-  It also answered for our breakfast next morning with the addition of a hot cup of coffee and saved us getting out of the station for it was (scu___) out and cold-- I am right glad to day I took no cold.  We were so comfortably provided for having three sections-- We put up the blankets against the windows which protected us splendidly,  so we reached here with no ill effects save being quite tired.  Our rooms were ready for us, good fires-  and the first floor - No. 17 and 18 - bathroom, wc attached so you can see we are very comfortable.  We, that is Clara and I took dinner in our rooms it was so late and we wished to lie down.  I undressed and had quite a nap. Mrs. Y-- will be very much shocked to hear I did go with the rest of the party to see the Black Crook but I was there,  so Bob thought it would not answer to leave me behind.  We took a covered carriage right at the entrance and therefore walked no distance, besides having an extra shawl-- I was very beautiful but -- the damsels in rather slight apparel for such cold weather .  I slept well I assure you, but still missed my own spring bed.  Today it is snowing hard---  We did not breakfast until  eleven, and have been since in the Parlor watching the numberless carriages and a few sleighs which are passing.  Have ourselves received one call from Tom Cochrane-= he dines at five so Clara and I are arrayed.  Laura Hill also was here Saturday afternoon to see us.  Also Connie Clark , sister of Lucia Burton, and Mip Lillie Parker of Buffalo who is visiting here. She tells me Lucia sailed for Europe the first of December that her lungs are affected and she will join her brother Cyrus at Nice.  I thought En had not probably heard of it.  I suppose the Riches will call tomorrow.  Laura spends the day with friends . You will be delighted to hear that Bob went down to Mr. Allen, taking the card and telling him what Mrs. Miller said, but upon looking at the books found the agent had reserved the rooms we wanted after all.  I presume it was because Bob told him he would pay a bonus to get rooms in the upper saloon - two rooms opening into one another.  We go on board at eleven Thursday.

       And now to the most important part of my letter and that is how is my darling little girl?  How many, many times my thoughts go back to her-- My precious Molly be a good little girl and mind Grandma-- The stores were not opened today or we should have got your dolly, but tomorrow both Papa and Auntie Clara are going out and it will get to you the last of the week. Mama will do the best she can and I hope you will like it.  Did you tell Grandma about seeing to your teeth in a weeks time at the Harvey’s. Oh! mother, take good care of my one precious lamb that I leave - when night comes I am quite unhappy. I want to see her and all of you so much.  I was cut out for a home-body.  Clara seems to enjoy everything very much. Kisses - Mama and Papa send thousands of them to our darling little girl, she must remember us in her prayers, as Mama does her, and ask to bring us safe home again.  Give love to Eve Rick and dear Lena whom I did not kiss and thought of when too late.  Henry and Billie dear boys.  I must mention all Auntie Bent and Family.  Good bye precious, precious mother and child.  I shall keep a journal if I am able and write immediately I can do so.  Good bye.

Dear Mother,

       Sara and Clara insist upon my adding a postscript to their letters, but I suppose in the matter of our doings and the things we have left undone, they have posted you up fully, including the “Colored Cook” which we witnessed last night through a smoky glass.  I have just returned from an inspection of the “Morro Castle”, and find our rooms (the last ones they gave us) as desirable as any on the boat --- provided with life preservers in abundance, and plenty of tin dishes for cascading purposes.  I hope our little darling girl has been one of the best of children, and will continue to be.  “Kiss her for her father”, and tell her to write us a long letter to Havana.  With much love to all

       Yrs affectionately

               Robert

      

Dear Mother-                                                                                  p 7

               The letters and telegraph came all right and glad indeed was I to hear the last thing so before leaving home-  Dear Mollie’s letter was so cunning we all read it.  Tell her she must write again when she hears from me and I do hope she will be the very best of little girls -  I send to day the dolly and (a kiss from Mrs. Barnard) the furs are for Tina with a thousand kisses.  I felt so sorry that I did not bid her good bye.  Clara has been out shopping all day for me getting a few indispensable things.  This evening they are going to the Broadway Theatre.  I’ve not been out at all for I felt my journey some to day.  Bob is improving, Clara well today.  Julia Hilliard, Jack Sproull, Geo. and Charley Dilly, Al Lathrop and Laura called, and Charles Hays also came down to bid us good bye.  Last evening we were all very quiet and went to bed early.  Thank you and Auntie Birt very much for all your trouble, dearest mother.   Sometime I hope to repay it all.  I feel perfectly at ease as regards leaving Mollie with you and Eve.  It was only my feeling on leaving so many dear ones behind.  If I could take all with me I should be very happy.  They call for our baggage at nine A.M. and we go on board at eleven.  You can write, it seems, by the next steamer on the 10th of January, directing it to Bob at Havana, Cuba.  A steamer leaves every Thursday. Put on a ten cent postage stamp.  Now kiss all good bye from me- and precious Mollie, remember Papa and Mama every night.  Good bye and more - - -

                       Sara

January 2nd, 1867

New York, January 2nd, 1867

Dear Mother,

This is our last night in America for some time in all probability.  Hence forth we shall cultivate foreign manners and forget our native tongue as soon as possible. Don’t you worry about any of us.  We shall all be better three days from now than we have been before in a year, and I have no doubt that by next spring the balmy breezes of Cuba will have entirely rejuvenated us all.  Our visit here has been so interrupted by holiday festivities and all the inhabitants feel so soreheaded today that we have had hard work to finish up everything today. But we are all right now, I believe. Tell Mollie not to forget to write some more of her nice letters to Havana.  Love to all,

       Yours affectionately

       Bob

January 3rd, 1867

And so our good ship has left her moorings and we are really on our way.  - Chas. Hayes - Geo. and Chas. Sibley - Al Lathrop, Thad Hamilton and Albert Barnard saw us off and waved their handkerchiefs as long as we were in sight.  Not a cloud in the blue sky, and the sea quite calm.  I stayed on deck till near four o’clock and then as we commenced to feel the motion of the ship went below.  Clara  and the rest went down to dinner but I felt no appetite.  Retired about six o’clock.  How they would laugh at home and think I was improving.  The staterooms are small but comfortable.  Still my delievermust know, I miss the holiday.  Bah! what a night. I slept some, have not as yet been sick. But Clara and Elizabeth, Whew!  Words cannot describe the latter -  It is fearfully cold - still it is better they say to be on deck if possible.  So here goes . Such a tumbling up stairs one never did see, but one really does feel better in the open air.  The chair Bob got in New York is so easy. What with three pair of woolen stocking and shawls without number I might be warm -- We are out of sight of land, how strange it is, and how perfectly helpless one feels if anything should happen to us.  I really enjoyed the lunch today.  Sandwiches and pickles, glass of sherry.  Expect to cascade, as “Bob” calls it, but was really faint, not being able to eat anything but crackers since we left. The night was much more pleasant.  I was so tired I slept soundly.

Saturday                                                                                              p 12

Have become acquainted with many of the passengers, and as for Clara, she has beaux innumerable.  She keeps up with good courage, is horribly sick every morning until she gets on deck, and as for Elizabeth she is of no manner of use to me, and how she does complain,  Bob has had to dress me and get me on deck every day.  I am very weak and it must be because I am buffeted about so much. How strange I’ve not yet been sea-sick.  I feel uncomfortably _sick_-cannot go dress to meals. The stewardess is very kind.  There is a Spanish family aboard, going in the cabin, all sick.  It is enough to make anyone so to see them.  The horrible little green canteens going up on the shelf.  I wonder if I shall have reason to use you ---.

It is so rough today, I feel as if I might. Mercy!  How the ship rolls, first down, down on one side, and then on the other.  A cracker dipped in water had been my subsistence today.  What a night.  The waves dash clear over the smoke stack, and everything in the room slides back and forth.  It is a perfect Babel.  I feel so afraid and bewildered, poor Bob spent most of the night consoling me. Clara staggered in consoling herself. Oh! if the morning would only come, I thought, and fervently prayed. The lights turn so dim. We lit our tapers and it is some consolation to be able to see.  How fearfully sick I have been, one does not care what becomes of them at such a time. Poor mother would give up in despair.  All of the ladies on hand are sick.  Bob keeps well and so does Henry, the latter thought he should be very sick - but they have not missed a meal.  Clara is wonderful -she pretends to take a little nap each day and them comes up on deck again all right.  How glad I am each day brings us nearer our destination on Sunday. ----

Oh the lovely, lovely day, Clara and Elizabeth have appeared as bright and beaming as possible and I shall try and get up by noon and go on deck, but dare not take anything to eat more than the cracker and water. I find we are all very much frightened last night, but this morning the sun shines brightly  although there is yet quite a sea. We see an occasional school of porpoises, and the sea gulls have been performing as one since we left New York.

I am snugly tucked in my chair reading my prayers for Epiphany, and think of the dear ones at home.  Bob and Henry are smoking. Clara talking with a Mr. Clausen who seems to have traveled everywhere over the world, and makes himself extremely entertaining.  Bob is far from well, he walked so much in New York as to strain his knee which makes him quite lame and also brought our tea kettles. Unfortunately there are no remedies on board for him to use but cold water.  But I really think a sea voyage seems to be beneficial to him.  Henry Kips is excellent company - funny as he can be - and seems to have made many friends.  The captain is very good to us, together with the purser “Mr. Alberts”.  We had letters to both of them and had the seats of honor assigned to us next to the Purser.  All but myself have (used) them, although Clara has not been down to every meal.  We have oranges in abundance on board, how often Clara says she wishes Mother had some of them.  We took a nap in the afternoon.  The ship swells dreadfully now.  Managed to get on deck before nightfall and glad indeed that we had but one day and night more.  Ah! The beauties of the sea I fear I do not appreciate.  I think if we should go down under those cruel waves which are rolling toward us, some mountains high.  We have concluded to go below.  Our ship sinks so far down first on one side and then the other, it is almost impossible to sit without sliding down.   So here’s to bed again -- Ah! what an awful crash. I scream to Bob.  He insists upon it something is the matter, but the engines stopped, and he concluded when the state room doors commenced to open he had better get up, and so he dressed and went on deck.                          p 17

Monday, 1/2 past five.  It is quite dark.  Find we are ashore on a point of rock, and many miles from shore, but oh! how fortunate it is a clear night and calm. We can get to shore without danger.  How the ship reels upon the rock.* We have swung clear around, our bow towards New York again. We have all concluded to dress. It is very strange,  We have taken soundings, and find we draw lighter (?) feet of water.  It seems to be only this little point, we were steaming as near the shore as possible, so as to make good time.  After being on the snag an hour and a half we succeeded in getting off without trying.  The Captain is very much chagrined, he is a regular old tar and asked me this morning upon seeing me up so early if that fish we ran over this morning woke me up, laughed and said the fish was only taking off a little beard, that gentleman appearing just then newly shaven.  But the funniest incident was Van Rice’s, ( we have that celebrity with his wife on board) inquiring by Mike, the waiter what was the matter? The latter insisted upon it - nothing at all - but Mr. Rice knew better - “ hell!”  says he,  “you know they’ve stopped to fix a bolt which is loose in the machinery.”  “ Oh! you beggar, you are lying?  Are we not aground?”  “Well your honor, if you must know, she is just a little bit”.  However all were very much frightened, and all ready for breakfast in good season.  The awnings have been put up on deck, and really this is the only day that has been warm; how much I enjoy it.  They say they seldom have such cold weather the first day out.

       We have been in sight of the coast of Florida all day.  How strange the tall palm trees look to us.  We had a long lunch on deck for I cannot yet go down stairs and eat anything. A glass of champagne made me feel quite nice.  We get no time to read.  It does seem as if they only eat.  Think of coffee or tea if you wish brought to you in bed; breakfast at nine, lunch at one, dinner at four, tea at seven.  To those who can eat it must be very nice  but I’ve not yet liked my sea appetite.  The last night on board ship.  Tomorrow we shall have reached our haven and I shall be more than thankful.  We sat up much later than usual, some reading and music given us by others---

Tuesday                                                                                          p 21

Passed the Morro Castle at seven this morning with firing of cannon and colors flying, steamed down the harbor.  Were kept waiting by the health officers nearly two hours.  Surrounded by the most perfect little gondolas. I ever saw represented on paper.  Every imaginable color and decorated with cushions and fringe.  Bob and Henry have gone ashore to see about our rooms, and it is quite exciting to us to see the luggage let down by tackle into the boats and a gangway lowered for the passengers.  We are anchored in the bay, and have to land in these small boats.  We are now the only ones left on board.  The captain insists upon our breakfasting with him, and not to wait until our gentlemen returned, so I have taken my first and only meal with him on board. We landed about eleve.

They opened our trunks at the custom house.  That did not trouble us very much.  We entered a coach and drove up here to the “Ingleterra”. Oh! The lovely trees and green grass and balmy air!  Clara and I are in (heaven).  We cannot express ourselves. The Hotel is situated on the Pasio, in front of which is a large park filled with trees and fountains.  Ladies have headed with only veils hiding. And Negro women walking with long dresses. My! If we had a yard more and did to our dresses they would come somewhere near the length of the Cuban ladies.  We breakfasted first - oranges, bananas, pines - then white sweet potatoes, steak, soft shelled crabs, eggs, fried bananas - other foreign dishes.  Claret to commence with - coffee last.

       We have front rooms on a balcony which overlooks the Paseo. Think of being in a church for the ceilings are very near as high. Marble floors,  (you see we can dream we dwelt in marble halls), a tremendous looking glass, a brass bedstead with muslin curtains and cotton lace, cane sofa and chairs, lattice doors opening upon the balcony, washstand in the corner, no windows - only these doors.  I could not stand the bed. They had to Americanize it somewhat for me, put on two mattresses and blankets to make it soft, a strip of carpeting in front of the bed will give you a perfect description of our rooms.                                                                                            p24

       We spent the rest of the day looking out the window   and dressing for dinner at four o’clock.

It was very French I thought, in fact precisely the way Professor Blot served his dinner -- soup-- entrements, entrees etc.  We then took a carriage for since Bob was here they have become much more civilized and I suppose have “broughams” (?) would have been still a greater change.

       Drove out the “Cerro”, saw the Governor General’s Palace, such a lovely drive, but odd enough to see the boys try to make the driver drive slow.                                                                                                  

       Henry made all the motions of pulling up the horses, and at last made him understand.  We have since heard that “Prio, Prio” meant slower.  We came home to hear about fifty musicians, etc. perform in the Pasio, and it perfectly encircles with a line of “Galantis” filled with elegantly dressed ladies, about fifteen hundred people   So you can judge if it was not exciting to us.  Went to bed tired out.

Wednesday - Was awakened this morning about half past eight by a Negro woman - Nancy- bringing a cup of coffee to us at the bedside.  Quite Oriental is it not.  We breakfasted at ten o’clock.  Everything new and strange.  Music playing while we are eating.  It is so hunlding (?) it seems like painted scenes in a theater which will be shifted aside soon.  We went out shopping about two o'clock, all four of us, such fun had trying to get our things.  I can not quite adopt the Spanish style of wearing only a “vail” (sp).  At night is it quite cool.  Bob mustered up “Spanish “ enough to buy me a very pretty hat.                 p 26

        We dined at five and at night went to the circus, a Boston gentleman, Mr. Yorke, accompanying us.  Think of going to an Opera in full dress, low neck and short sleeves, diamonds etc.

        The circus is arranged like our theater, built of wood, but just an ordinary performance such as we have in the summer months at home ---.

Robinson the (man) Jock knows rides, and his son Clarence are fun.  We took a delicious ice cream and crackers after the performance, came home to sleep soundly, I assure you.

This morning we have deserted the letter writing and have just returned from a ride to a new Hotel called “El Telegrafo” which is kept better and furnished more ___ than this, private meals, but the situation not near as pleasant.  Truth is -- we should think for a while -- a  “in situ” in this place for we are followed almost continuously.  It don’t seem to make any difference, whether Bob is around or not -- The proprietor told Bob it was not considered out of the way in this country.  I rather imagine that is one reason my Bob thinks of changing, as he would unlike to lease one situated so alone.  He has not delivered his letters from home to Dr. Frums as yet.  Mrs. Frums is dead, died almost a year ago and as try him in the city did not think their house as healthy or pleasant as here.  They have the small pox badly at Matanzas so we cannot go there at present.

---My dear ones I have given you a faithful account of what has happened to us since we left in a sort of journal form - otherwise I should not be able to remember all that might be interesting to you.  __Pencil is inevitable this time Mother, for my letter is so long I never should be able to get through with a pen ---p29

       We are all very well, and much pleased with Havana.  It seems very long until we hear from home, and I earnestly hope Mollie keeps well, dear darling little girl - did she like her dolly?  I dreamed of her last night.  Elizabeth wants her sister’s address from her mother, she (has not mentioned) her child ____ in a while, so she seems to be contented.  She has met an Englishman here.  Tell Aunt Charlotte Henry is a real good boy.  I never half appreciated his good qualities until thrown in with him so intimately as he is the very life of the party.

       Everything is strange to us here--think of roses in January. I have some here in my room.  Clara has on her green muslin, Bob in a white suit.                                                                           p30

        I think I ought to have been better provided with thin clothes.  I am sure I don’t see what Sue Williams meant by cool weather.  Clara says I have written everything, and she don’t see that anything is left for her to say, but that she is glad she came.  We cannot (post)_our letters for our government has its own postal arrangements with Spain.  Rather unpleasant if we wish to correspond with other than our own families, and we feel in duty bound to write a letter worth paying for.

       Everyone of our dear precious people, I think of you often and if I had my dear little Mollie and you all here, would be quite content.  I am afraid I shall never be able to let the folks come away without me.  Remember me to  Auntie Birt and family.  I am getting a collection of curious leaves for Lottie --                                   Love and kisses to all of you from

        Affectionately

       Sara

       Hotel Telegrafo --                                                         p31

       We moved here last night -- We have now a lovely suite of rooms - three deep, opening into one another, ours first, then Clara’s, then Elizabeth’s.  Henry and another gentleman room opposite.  We use one’s for a sitting room.  They all open upon a large inside court where we dine.  Upon each floor there is a private bath for each family.  It is an entire (new) house since the rooms never have been furnished,  furniture being just put in.  The picture Bob has drawn for Mother is a pretty correct representation.  The ceilings are very high, as are the doors and

(   _ ) being of wood, with lattice.  Doors (are of) shot glass, here is stained furniture, mahogany, bedstead of brass,  toilet set - red and gilt china - all quite modern.                                                  

(_____ ) you as for comforts, but very foreign the style and way of living.

It is in every way a cleaner and more comfortable Hotel than the other, but the location not quite as beautiful, it being on the Campus Marti the troops (parade) on it about seven every morning - sometimes at least two thousand.

       Now when you write just direct to Robert’s care - Havana, Cuba - that is all the direction necessary.  He can even get postage stamps here and put on would-be letters - and that’s the end of the letters. He takes them to the steamer, gives them to the Purser and they are mailed from New York. (forms ?) will however come all right.                                                                                 

       I hope Mollie keeps well Mother, and will you see about her teeth.  They told Bob those back ones were her second set, and would be replaced.  I do not think it can be so.  I’ve watched her so closely and she has had but those decay.  Dr. Harnig said it would save her much pain to fill them until the others came. I do not understand what he means.  These letters have to go today.  Clara says there is nothing left for her to say, but sends much love, as does Robert - Love to one and all

        Affectionately -

               Sarah

Dear Mother,                                                                                  p34

       Sarah’s letter will undoubtedly give you so clear an idea of our past doings and present situation, that I will not attempt anything in the same line.  I simply write to add my testimony that from the time we landed, she has been improving steadily and rapidly. The weather is like a Buffalo summer (from 70 to 80) and even one of her delicate health can remain in the open air at all hours without danger.  We improved our own situation very much yesterday by moving our goods, chattels and persons to a new Hotel on the Campo Marti, through which the Paseo de Tacon runs.  With the exception of the view which from the Inglaterra Hotel was magnificent, we have every reason to be satisfied with the change.                                                                                           p35

We have here new furniture throughout and perfect cleanliness, an article not usually found in a Spanish menage.  When we can learn to get out of bed a little earlier in the morning, we shall make a vigorous attempt at lionizing.  Thus far breakfast, a four hours blazing sun, dinner and darkness, have followed too closely on each other’s heels to allow of our doing anything in that way.  We are going to have Clara stay, if all thing are agreeable, until the 10th or 11th of February, and by that time I hope we shall have been able to see something of the island.

        The smallpox at Matanzas interferes somewhat with our plans, but we hope it will subside before long so as to make a visit there safe.

                                                                                               

I hope my precious little daughter is a very good girl.  We miss her very much, and Mamma will wear her picture out with kissing it.  I wish I could enclose some cigars for Hen and Will and Dick.  We revel in them here.

        Goodbye

        Love to all, and rest satisfied we are all in much better condition than when  we left Buffalo, and gaining “every time” __

       Affectionately,

               Robert

       My own little girl,                                                                

        How often Mamma thinks of you and trusts you are a good little Mollie, and mind Grandma well - Did you like your dolly.  Aunty Clara went all around New York to get you a larger one, but could not find one, so as this took off all her clothes, I thought you would not care to have them all alike.  You would not have liked to have been on the ship with me, dear, for it rolled so in the water, and some of the waves came way over the cabin where Mamma was.  There was only one little girl on board, and she was very sick.  I saw such a nice little Negro baby yesterday; you and Lena would have laughed so, she was only five or six, and played the fiddle for us.  You have commenced school again I hope, and must try and learn fast, and write me such a dear letter, as you did while I was in New York.  Mamma’s bed that she sleeps on at night is exactly like the wire cradle Papa bought you with the curtains.  Your birthday comes next Tuesday and I send lots of kisses for it, and tell Grandma she must get you something for us,  Papa says.

                                                                                               

I hope that when we hear from Grandma she will  be able to tell us what an obedient little girl you have been.  I kiss your picture good night always.  None of the little girls wear bonnets here, a piece of black lace on their heads.  Elizabeth likes it very well I think.  She has a very pretty room, the floor is all laid in different colored marble; but she says her bones ache like Mamma’s, the beds are so hard.  You must play nicely with Lena, and remember you are the oldest and must always give up.  I would like to have printed this letter for you to read, but found I could not.  Papa is going to try and make a picture of our room for  you to see. p40

         Now write to me, dear, when it is not too much trouble for someone to tell you how to spell the words; ___ and always remember Papa and Mamma when you say your prayers at night; for I always think of my little darling precious.

        Goodbye

                Affectionately

                        Mamma

(picture below, and under the picture is written -)

“You can see what a fancy wash stand we have.”        

       I shall keep on with my journal for I find it is the only way I can keep you posted as regards our movements, for a little written each day will be better than hurrying so at the end of the week.  Bob has, together with Henry, taken our letters down to the consignor of the Morro Castle, and a week from today they will probably reach you, allowing for all delays.  We like our new hotel very much, and Henry’s friend, “Mrs. Gorham” of Boston has already followed in our footsteps, and we all dine together “en famille” on or own floor - and enjoy our Spanish repasts very much, Sara so for trying each dish and I generally wait until they decide whether there are onions in it or not. We have lettuce, green peas and radishes- - and served pretty much as Professor Blot taught us.                                                                                           p42

       Friday Eve-

        We went to the Circus again, it being the last night of Mr. Robinson’s performances.  He sails tomorrow on the Morro Castle.  It was crowded and jammed.  The concert was perfectly deafening.  Our fellow passenger and his wife were also there and seemed to be a great object of interest. I mean Van Rice--

-

        Saturday -

        Breakfasted about 10 o’clock.  It is almost impossible to rise early here,  we are so tired out at night.  We then took a carriage and drove out to the Bishop’s Palace, a very long distance and quite warm.  It is so amusing to see Henry try to make our driver comfortable.  We have had the same one each time so that he appears to be quite used to our frequent screams of laughter and rather enjoys it.  I was quite disappointed to find the palace had been sold recently to a Mr. Antonio, now in Paris, and no person was admitted.  However we walked up to ( the entrance)_and took a peep at whatever we could.

       From here we drove to the  (Conde Di Palatino, Count Palatini’s) palace and gardens.                                           p43

The houses as all are so very immense.  Seems to be built of yellow limestone only two stories high. The gardens had fine hedges and trees and in the front a flower garden. From here we drove though the “Lisso”.  Saw interminable palaces and residences of Counts and Marquises - to the Governor General’s country residence on the Pasio di Facon.  And this was really magnificent.  Cascades of water in different parts of the grounds,   (groves) of orange trees and arbors of different kinds of wood, fountains without number, beautiful flowers, --the gardeners gave us a few-- , tall palm trees.  It was quite oriental, I assure you.  It was near four when we returned tired out.  Washed and dressed to go to the Theatre di Facon - with Mrs. Stearns, the interpreter, and Mrs. Briggs and daughter of New York.  This box was placed  at our disposal so we accepted.                                         

        We were accompanied home by Mr. Clausen and this Mr. Chapman, received from the latter an invitation to a Creole Dinner on Sunday but I did not think it very proper to dine with bachelors and strangers, as they were, besides its being Sunday. They quite laughed at our scruples and tried to overcome them.

       Sunday Morn. - Was aroused by music on the Campo di Marti which is directly in front of our Hotel - selections from Faust, waltzes, etc.  We all rushed to the lattice doors in our night dresses, the troops and primer( new being reissued ) fire engines.  They looked like a child’s cart.  We sent Elizabeth to call Henry and he was perfectly convulsed with laughter when he saw them.  We had decided to go to church but were told so many different times that we did not manage to go.  Church is over here at twelve o’clock.

        The Sundays are often just like any other day and in fact I believe they have more going on than at any other time.  Theatre in the evening.

        No other religion than Catholic is tolerated here.  The men went to a bullfight in the afternoon.  I believe they are quite content and do not wish to see another.  Henry nearly fainted away and I do sure understand from the descriptions they p46 gave me.  It is arranged with a ring and seats like a circus, men cased in armor or gay silks and colors of any hue.  Six mules and five horses of arms or firemen were killed.  The horses were driven in again and again, when their entrails were all hanging out. They said it was a most fearfully cruel sight - hell!

        They none of them wanted any dinner when they returned.  Clara and I dined alone at four and then went for a drive on the Pasio at five in a volante, our first drive in such a carriage. It was a two horse one and (quite) handsome.  The Pasio and Lisso were crowded with carriages.  We had a few words in Spanish written down for us, enough to enable us to turn, stop and go home. It was getting dark and we called to the Coachiso to turn around (a vuelta). He nodded and turned into a lonely sort of road directly away from home - no carriages were passing                 p47 and for a short time we thought we might be mistaken, but pretty soon the Negro stopped his horses and got down as we supposed to fix his harness, instead of that he walked up to the carriage holding out his hand and saying - “una dollar”- several times. Of course we were frightened to death knowing we were alone in a lonely road - no money with us and not being able only to say a few words - but we tried not to show how frightened we were - shook our heads and said “si, si” which means “yes, yes, a Hotel Telegrafo” - meaning when we got to the Hotel.  He demurred -- at last.  I called  “Pronto”- quick to the Hotel.  He got on again and drove very slowly.  We called to him to “Pronto” and finally we did reach the Hotel, frightened out of our senses.  We called the interpreter, Mr. Strauss.                                             

       The Negro got a good whipping and we found he was begging.  It created quite an excitement.  However it showed us still how dangerous is it for women to be alone here. We find no woman can go out alone and I can quite understand now how it could not have been very pleasant for Sue Williams alone -  Why they make love to you right away.  We should think they never saw a white woman before -- “Bob” says he would not leave me alone here for anything - we live and learn Why!

    We cannot walk at all, have to ride constantly so of course one has so little exercise that it is not very pleasant.  “Bob” met here Sunday morning “ Mr. Stebbins” who used to live in Buffalo, moved to Brooklyn, his daughter Maria married to a Mr. Bartlett - brother of Mrs Orido - he died last summer.  Since that time his daughter has been here with Mrs. Orido on the plantation and Mr. Stebbins is going to take her back with him.  He is in the Treasury Department at Washington and on ____ for government.

He called upon us and made arrangements for us to visit the “Minorski”, our gun boat, which is in the harbor Monday aft, and had invited “Bob” to go with him Tuesday to Mr. Orido’s plantation.  I don’t yet know whether he will--

        Sunday eve we had a number of gentlemen here to call upon us, and after they left, in company with,___  we  drove to the Santa Hotel to call upon our Consul “Mr. Minor”- did not find him at home however, but were introduced to a number of Americans from New York, a Mr. Antonio Rasiney and mother and sister - Mr. Roberto and wife, Skip Henderson, Mr. and Mrs. West.

        Monday we took a carriage, and drove out about eleven o’clock, went to the Custom House for our permits - took Elizabeth out with us this time--- went to the Consul, he asked us to waive ceremony and come up into the office which we did.  I like him very much indeed. He is expecting his family on the next steamer.  p 50

We then  went to Dr. Thomas.  Bob delivered his letters and he is to call upon us tomorrow aft.  Bob said he liked him very much.  We did a little shopping and lunched, just reached the hotel in time to meet “Mr. Stebbins”, also a Mr. Springer from the Consulate.  We then found a gondola  waiting for us and round to the “Minorski”.  The officers were expecting another large party on board - they soon came.  We visited all parts of the boat and were entertained with cake and champagne and insisted we attend a ball given to the American Ladies on board - Wednesday evening.  After returning home had calls all evening.  Mr. Clausen, Mr. Chapman, Stebbins and Wiley (?). Also Mr. Rasinez with an invitation to attend a concert but we were too tired to accept---                                  Tuesday - Bob had the asthma all night dreadfully, had to sit  up all night in bed.  It would be rather cool and uncomfortable to sit up in a chair on a marble floor all night.  We both are rather tired.  I can’t conceive how he took cold unless it is with all these drafts.

       I quite forgot to mention we were all  vaccinated the other day by Dr. Billot, one of the first physicians here.  It was considered necessary, the smallpox is raging so in Matanzas.  Three (?) thousand and three hundred cases, and most all that are taken.

        Fri. All of our vaccines are going to take.  The doctor called this surprising to see them.  Said Elizabeth’s was the worst exposed of any.  He had vaccinated her on both arms, six places on each arm, and says she will not feel very well for a few days.

        The steamer arrived with fifty-five passengers on board.  We sure all expected letters, and only “Bob” and Henry got any.  Too bad.  I thought we should certainly hear from you. Henry’s were from “Mr. Morgan” with letters of introduction to different plantations. “Bob’s” from Chas. Henshaw.  It is too bad one cannot go to Matanzas there is so much to see.  there.                      p52

        We went out driving today. Saw the Plaza des Armes and the Cathedral where Christopher Columbus is said to be buried. Dr. Homes called this cruising. I like him very much indeed.  He asked up to go down to his house, but Bob was going to a Spanish Masonic meeting and Clara was expecting some gentlemen - Mr. Gorham, Rasinez , Mathis called.  Clara went up to the Pasio and Henry Kips --- All have gone at last.  I get awfully tired when night comes.  There is so much to see and do, but I’ve improved wonderfully and am really hungry their first time in months.  Spanish or not I believe I could really eat onions.  They have only two meals a day Sunday and we are famished when they come around.  “Bob” does not seem at all well - he ought to stay out of that Express Office, much longer than he intends to -- I shall go to New Orleans with them and if I can find pleasant accommodations will remain there, but shall not think of doing so here.                          

I might as well remain in a jail. A week more until we hear from you.  I can hardly wait.  I kiss Mother’s picture every night and think of you all often.

       Wednesday

       Bob left this morning in company with Mr. Stebbins for Mr. Ovidos plantation to remain until Thursday morn, taking with him two of Henry’s letters of introduction to different planters who lived hear.  The letters were for us as well as Henry, so it made little difference who presented them. Bob had to get up at half past four.  He has not yet got over his asthma.

Dr. Billot was to bring him some tincture of arsenic, one drop in four tablespoonfuls of water and one tablespoon a dose, but he has not seen him as yet again.

       This morning your letters from you all reached us and we all fairly cried.  Henry had a beautiful letter from his Father.  It was really a family one to us all. Dear Mother, I read ours many times.  Yours and Ev’s were full of news.  I hope Grandma is much better by this time.  We received also Buffalo papers and it seems very funny to hear of seasons being so diff. and to feel here the  very warm weather. -It is hard to realize it is only January.  We went out  shopping this morning with Mr. Chapman an English              p54

gentleman living here- no favorite of mine, for he is egotistical.  Prices are very cheap here. I bought a pair of gaiters high on the ankle, leather and ___ for $4 in gold. ___ or ___ $1.25 in gold and exquisite jewelry is also very cheap. other things very high--

       We did not get back until way past three - then dressed for dinner.  Mr. Whitney, a Boston gentleman and friend of Mr. Gorham’s, also Mr. Chapman dined with us.  After dinner our rooms were filled with callers - a Mr. Campro - Young and a Cuban. Mr. Matzo, Mr. Rasinez and Chapman.  We went to the Pasio at about eight to hear the music, after which took some ice cream.  It is beautiful moon light nights here -- and there’s always a great deal of riding at night.

        Thursday: - Mr. Rasinez breakfasted with Henry Kips this morning.  Mr. Gorham has gone out on the Lisso to stay overnight, so our table (loses) numbers each day. Bob has not yet returned. Clara is receiving calls and our plans are today to go aboard the Spanish Man of War at half past two to hear the music.   Quite a large party have been invited and going to take  a drive this evening by moonlight to hear the music near the Governor General’s residence.  It is very strange to hear the watchman at night call the hours - half past ten and a clear night -- in Spanish, and it (sounds) until you hear it die away in the distance.  I still think I should not care to remain here alone, for it would be terribly lonely, and of course I could not stir out of the  hotel.

        I bought some spoons with some, Mother, so don't write about them.  No___ and ______ gentlemen have come up from the Santa Isabel Hotel to see if we re going out on the Spanish steamer and have made arrangements to meet at four o'clock.

       “Bob” returned but felt very miserable, he had one of his bilious attacks together with his asthma.  He looks and feels badly.  I gave up going this afternoon. The rest had a beautiful time.  Supper, music on board.  In the evening we went out shopping, saw many beautiful things but did not insist so much.

       Friday--

        The letters have to be finished today as the steamer leaves tomorrow.  We are to go today to a Cigarette Establishment to get a permit from the Government. After that a drive on the Lisso so I believe that is all the plans laid out so far ).  Have just time to add we went to the Cigarette          p56 establishment and were all presented with - a present - upon leaving and names written or rather engraved.

We are going to call upon Dr. Thomas and family-- and now I have to say goodbye and recommence my journal from tomorrow again. I hope my darling Mollie keeps well. I treasure all her little letters. When you see Dr. Bull tell him upon examining my case of medicines for asthma for Bob not one of the bottles had anything in them, and __ with just about half of them.  They looked as if they were full but on taking them out nothing was in them.  We send much love to Aunty Burt and family, dear Em, and Vick, Lena - Will and Henry. You do not say one word about the house and Bob is quite anxious to hear.  Tell Henry to write us one of his good letters - if you only knew how much your letters are appreciated. Kiss my own little girl a thousand times. Papa and I have been looking for something pretty for her.  With much love - I hope Mollie will keep well.

Aff Yours - Sara

My Own Little Girl,                                 Friday, Jan 18, 1867

Your letter was very dear to me, and I keep them all with great care.  I was glad to hear you had commenced school, for I want you to get along as fast as you can.  Elizabeth is quite well and was so pleased when i read to her Grandma’s letter that her little girls had been down to play with you and Lena. I saw such beautiful dollies here today, one which could move its arms, head, and legs and say Mama too. I wanted very much to get it for my little girl, but Papa’s purse was not quite long enough to pay--- for it.  You must be very kind, and gentle to Lena- and mind Grandma well--- Papa and I have been out this evening to see what we could find for our little darlings at home.   Don’t forget to say your prayers and remember both Papa and Mama.  Dear Papa is not very well. He has a very bad cough --- and I weigh 102 lbs. Only think how much better I am.  Now goodbye my own little priceless girl, and God keep you safe and well until I hold you in my arms once more. p57

Your own Mama

My dear little Pokey,

Mamma has left me a wee little place, just big enough to put a small package of love for my precious darling.  I hope you have been a great help to Grandma at home and at market.  If you could see our Market here -- with Negroes and Chinamen, instead of Dutch women, and oranges, bananas, pineapples, cocoa-nuts, and such in place of chickens, apples and so on -- The weather is cold - so the people here say -- though all our sleigh-riding is done in volantes: things like a wheel barrow going wrong end first. (drawn picture of a volante)

Goodnight my little darling. Be a good girl and write every time to Mamma and Papa                                                                                          

 Having sent off our letters I resumed our weekly journal.  Our call upon Dr. Vonnes and wife was delightful. I admire her exceedingly.  She was a Miss Bowen from Providence R. I so of course “Bob”  and her had an abundant source of conversation. She is very lonely.

       Saturday -- We were very late in rising this morning and had barely time to array ourselves for Mr. Clausen and Chapman -- Bob and Henry, Miss Merryback, Clara and I had formed a party to go to the Cathedral where Christopher Columbus’ ashes are interred.  It is very large. Fine organ.  Saw also a picture which had been painted fourteen years before Columbus landed here.  And the tablets to his memory.  Once a  year they have a day          p60 dedicated to him.  These ashes are taken from the Church, and carried in a procession to the first chapel which was erected in the island, and many interesting ceremonies gone through with.  We dined at five and were invited to a ball at the Santa Isabel.  Henry and Clara went - but Bob and I did not care to - so we took a drive in the park to hear the music.  Clara looked so pretty in her pink silk and “Mr. Minn” said she was quite the prettiest girl there-

       Sunday -  We had determined to be up early enough this morning to go to one of the churches, but it was raining hard, in fact pouring like a hail storm in the States, and continued to all day -- so going out to drive was quite out of the question.  We read and talked all day, having made the acquaintance of a party of Americans who occupy the rooms opposite to us, and very pleasant they are -- New Yorkers - Mr. and Mrs. Annport, Dr. and Mrs. Keef, Miss Gurnian, a Mr. Wiley. I mention their names for they know many of  our  friends - the  Blisses, etc.  Sunday evening the Chapmans called.                                                          

       Monday - We concuded to have our photographs taken in a Volante.  Mrs. Frums accompanied us.  We created quite  a sensation for it was some trouble to keep the  street clear long enough to take them.  The streets are so extremely narrow we could not  have the volante taken sideways, and could wish these were better, but we tried four times.

       Hot does not express the term since the rain. It is worse than ever.  Oh! for more thin dresses, I continually sigh, for I’ve absolutely  nothing in that line.  Clara is well off. I’ve invested in a "Nipa"” or pineapple  dress and a chemise.  I do not see, with the exception of shoes and these dresses, that anything is very reasonable.  The custom here is to send up a clerk from the different stores, with samples of his goods arranged in books. You order what you like and it is brought to you.

        Tuesday - my birthday- “Bob” was terribly disappointed.  He had expected my present which he had ordered in New York before we left, by the steamer, which did not come. We spent a very quiet day-- it was so hot we could not think of going out. So in the afternoon we all took a rest. We just got dressed in time for dinner.                                                                     p62                                                                 

        Dr Grimes and his wife called to take us out on the “Cirro” to visit Mr. Fairchild -their carriage and footman. Only Bob and I went with them and we drove out in fine style.  We were received very cordially, spent a pleasant evening, and met a number of Americans there.  They used to have a regular night proceedings(?), but their daughter married a Spaniard, against their will, and they have  been very quiet since it occurred.  Mr. Fargo and wife seem to have been quite intimate with them.  Clara and Henry took a drive on the Pasio, while we were gone - to hear the music.   We had a number of calls the rest of the evening.

       Wednesday - what a quantity of things we had proposed to do today. We have come to the conclusion that we are getting lazy and must make amends.  We have lounged (?) about with the rest of the American party on one floor all the morning. It is the “Infanta’s” birthday - so we all congregated upon the  balcony to see the grand services by the Governor General in the Campo de Mar which is directly in front of our hotel. Almost twelve p63 thousand troops have passed - think of that, good people! I never saw so many before, not do I expect to again.   The cavalry were very fine, with flags on the end of their pointed lances and about thirty abreast. Canon were being fired in the harbor, and from Morro Castle, and bells ringing.  Quite a display, you see.

       The evening passed with callers - a Mr. Casanova who spends most of his time in New York, and is there a great pet of the ladies - knows Mrs. Patikin, and the Kinns, is very attentive to Clara.  Do you remember. Eh? Laura had quite a time with him when she was at school, and Mr. Wilson interfered. Mr. Casanova corresponded with her -  I remembered it all when I found out who he was.  He has been a great flirt.

        Henry Kip has been very careless and lost the letters of introduction to different planters which Uncle Henry sent.  So our prospects of seeing a sugar plantation are small, still  we shall make an effort to  accomplish it, if we can do so by writing to one whose name “Mr. Rande” Bob remembered,  and the most of the letter of introduction, telling him about it being mislaid- and it may have some effect.  Upon many of the plantations they take boarders but just not this season, the sugar is being ground and all have guests.

       Have been adding a few lines to my resume, of our weeks’ doings.  Find there is no steamer this week, only from Baltimore and if you wrote in time for that (which is not probable) we may hear today by the “Cuba” for she is first in and  leaves for New Orleans - Saturday.   The Morro Castle is not due here until next Thursday, so we can not hear from home until then.          p65  

We are going to send our letters home by this  steamer, Cuba, from New Orleans, for no doubt you will be wondering  why you do not hear from us.

       I  do not know what at the  trouble is  in New York but there has  been some change made in the sailing of the steamer.  It seems a very long time to wait - two weeks- until we get some  news from home.  Some said that the “Columbia” may be in tomorrow,  and that the change made is the vessels leaving on Saturdays after 3 o’clock.

       We are going to visit the forts today  -  Fort Catanias and Morro  Castle - quite a large party of us. Such a tramp, as we  have had a very tiresome thing accomplished, but see all concluded.  We should have missed  a great deal if we had gone without seeing the forts -  They are wonderful with their concealed passages and numerous walls and  crannies(?).  By the last  steamer one of our American passed guns (sure?) brought one for them,  and  was just being mounted.  It is the only decent gun there is.  The others,  and many of them, are quite old fashioned as you may judge, built  in (1724).   We did not get back until seven o’clock, had a hearty dinner and then went down p66 into the city for medicine for Bob’s asthma which continues very badly.  He has slept only a few hours again through the night, sitting bolstered up in the bed.  None of the  medicines have seemed to benefit him.  Will you get that prescription from Mrs. Staats again and send it in your next letter to New Orleans.  I will tell you before finishing this letter how to direct-   Bob left the one she gave him before in Buffalo amongst his papers.  We could have the prescription put up in New Orleans if we had it.  We shopped considerably and were tired enough when we returned to go to bed.  Clara slept with me for I have been kept awake so much with Bob that I was feeling pretty tired.  Our beds are fearful here.  I long, many times, when I am so tired, for my own comfortable one at home.  If one could only be at home  when night comes.  It is still very warm but a cool breeze --the nights, however are very damp.  Our clothes  all stick that we put on in the morning.  I find upon looking back that I did not tell you what we did Monday evening.  Mr. “Joseph Frums” gave us a moonlight dance on the top of his house.  There were about thirty Americans and Spaniards present.  He had a nice supper and punch and enjoyed it very much indeed.  He is extremely cordial, talks a good deal about Sue Williams and what a pleasant time they had when she was here --- His wife I heard from is dead.  Everyone with whom we have been acquainted have been exceedingly kind, and we have  been told that very few who come here have been about, and seen as much as we have.  We shall go to Matanzas for a day before we  leave, for it would be such a pity to miss it.  We have written to Cap. Sturgeon that we leave here on the 9th, and to get us good rooms.

       We shall come  up the  river slowly stopping at St.  Louis,  and different places.  I have  made up my mind to return with the rest. But really,  it  would  be  very uncomfortable  to remain  alone.  If  I had friends even,  in New Orleans,  it would be very different.  But you see, I  could  not  remain without a gentleman  -  exposed to insults!  Mercy!- they press a white woman  here,  even when we are out shopping.  The other night an impudent thing went from store to  store just as we did.  Bob says he would not leave me here for anything.  Besides, the journey has been of great benefit to me,  and I think if I am careful I can get through March.  Only thirty days to weather through,  for we shall soon be home, before the first of  March  _ _ _ .

       Friday -- Clara was up so  early this morning to go to the market with  a party.  I was quite too tired.  She  came back having tasted every variety of fruit they have here, and bringing home for breakfast some delicious  berries, bananas, corn, tomatoes, and peas.                                                                

       We have just got news that the  Columbia is in, and so all the  gentlemen have started off to see if we have any letters.  I hope we shall get some.  We  have no settled plans for today, expect to  drive out on the Lisso.  Had calls all the evening --- and received Em’s letter dated the 12th of January and mailed the 15th.   No steamers leave from New York again until the 26th, reaching  here Thursday the 31st.  The Columbia by which our  letters came was six days coming, very bad storms, also the Cuba had a bad passage from New  Orleans.  The passage is three days.  Dr. Belloit said if I would only go back home by sea I would derive so much benefit you would scarcely know me. --- But the others are all desirous of going by the river, so we will do so, stopping at St. Louis and other places.

       Saturday -- another rainy day which prevents our going out.  We received our present from New York.  It is an amethyst set in diamonds - exquisite. We have made a great number of acquaintances, and so have a number of calls.  Robert is very far from well, his asthma continues so badly. He called in a “Dr. Caro” who  gave him chloroform, only a temporary relief  however.  Pray don’t forget to send us to New Orleans the prescription from Mrs. Staats.  I am improving splendidly,  never did eat so much, and weigh 102 lbs.  Is not that doing well in four weeks?  

       Now Mother’s clothes are all too large for her before  we left. Mercy!   Elizabeth says she used to pin them on they were  so  loose -- I think she  must have a better appetite, and the change has benefitted her.  You are a  precious darling, Mother to take so much trouble. Let Em fix  them, dear  Mother,  and

don’t  you worry yourself.  How is the house getting along?  Robert frets once in a while over it.  I do wish Henry Sizer would write to him and let him know.  I think he is quite uneasy at times.

        Clara went to the Cathedral this morning, saw the bishops’ robes which are embroidered in precious stones.  Dr. Frumms sent his carriage for us to drive out in.   We went out on the Lisso about four miles --  beautiful drive.  Robert had a more comfortable night.  The  weather is quite damp here at night and I am afraid it does not agree with him, but there are no steamers before the 9th so I am afraid we cannot get away before that time.

        Monday - we are off for the day, going to ride about, do some shopping and sightseeing.  Robert is writing a few lines to go by the Columbia which sails  Wednesday, to Henry Burt, and sending a check to him as we are going to be gone longer than we intended.  We thought he might need one.  Let us know  if it reaches all right.  Henry Kip seems very contented.  He gets homesick  once in a while-- Clara is well -- getting fat. She says I write everything and she does not see what there is left for her to say ---Elizabeth seems quite pleased when I tell her about her children, for she has not heard  a word from home. I  should think her mother and brothers might write to her even a few lines. By the time this reaches you they would have to                           p70

direct to New Orleans . She is well and I  think could  enjoy herself if she could walk out, and we cannot take her with is but a few times as there is generally quite a  party . We were out until nearly four o’clock this afternoon, got a couple more night dresses and quite beautiful.  We are all anxious to smuggle cigars but do not know  whether we can do so or not.        

       Bob wrote to Mr. Rande when Henry could not find Co. Morgan’s letter explaining to him about it’s being mislaid,  and enclosed another letter of introduction which Mr. Morgan had sent to a Mr. Santini, that he might see we were no impostors. (Bob) received an answer this morning to visit the Hasmer estate belonging to the Marquis of Aldan and should go the last of the week, staying over at Matanzas a day or two, the smallpox has nearly abated there.  So we shall be able to see a sugar plantation after all.

       Don (?) Stetts came in from the Trinidad estate, bringing his daughter, Mrs. Bartlett.  They sail for home Wednesday on the Columbia. He came up for us to go and see her.  She was staying at Mrs. Nicolo’s city house, he  waived etiquette as she was so busy getting ready to  leave.  He was delighted that we did go.  She is extremely beautiful, resembles Eliza Gordon, seemed  to  (weight?) having Mrs. Nicolo say much,  She showed us the house,  also Mrs. Nicolo’s  bedroom furniture, picture in her bridal costume, etc. The house inside is very, very large and beautiful.

                                                                                                   

Friday, Jan 25

       My own little girl. I  wish I could print you a nice letter that you could read yourself but “Mama” cannot do so well as Papa in that way.  I am real glad that you have commenced school again and you must ask Miss Manchester to show you how to write, so that you will not have to trouble “Aunt Emmy”. I wish every day you were here to have some of the nice fresh bananas and pineapples, and to run about on the green grass.  Just think of the beautiful roses, and flowers of every color that we are enjoying here. I presume this will seem very strange to you while you are sitting by a warm fire and the snow is deep upon the ground outside.

        While I am  writing today, Auntie Clara is reading on the balcony and wears her muslin dress and I have on my white billante,  and you, I suppose, are toasting your little toes by the fire - Well!                                                                                          Mama has concluded she cannot stay away so long from her precious daughter and so  we shall all be home together.  Now I hope that you are one of the best little  girls ---  obedient, kind, and gentle.  You remember, if I hear a good account of you I shall have some packages for you to open-- But I know  you will be just as good as  if “Mama” were standing right by your side, peeping over your shoulder while you are reading this, or Aunt Emmy for you.  I kiss your picture every night and would often, often like to  have it kiss me back again.  Don’t forget the  handles.   Yes and  no lis---?  Remember dear -- Papa will add a line --  and with a  kiss for Cousin Lena, and dozens of kisses for yourself. Good bye my precious little darling.

Your aff- Mama

P.S.  My precious, your dear little letter was very comforting.  I think you must have grown fat since you went to Grandma’s, for Aunt Emmy says your clothes were all too tight and had to be let out.  Now they say loose at the Life House, so Elizabeth used to pin them on.  Do you remember?  So we  all think Grandma’s nice things are doing you good.                                                 p73

       (Illustration of parlors and rear view of Mule)

       My precious little daughter,

Papa must write a  word or two to his baby; though I suppose you don’t think of yourself as a baby, now that you have had another birthday,  and are eight years old! and almost as large as your Mamma, for she only weighs just fifty pounds more than you do.

       Since Mama finished her letter, five troops of cavalry, soldiers on horseback with lances and flags, have ridden into the  plaza right in front of our room. There are five or six hundred  of them and they look very gay and brilliant --  Ten days ago there were many thousand soldiers, ten times as many as you could put in Niagara Square, drawn up in a line more than a mile  long, and the  Captain General, a very large man here, and all his officers, with red and gold uniforms, rode along the line, which made a  very fine sight, better than the Fourth of July in Buffalo.  You must go over to our new house and write me how it is getting along, and see that it is built right, and that your room is fixed to suit you --Much love, my darling and many kisses from your own Papa.

(continued from something,) WIll tell you more directly when we get home, about it.                                                                   p74

       We must thank Mr. Minn, our consul, and several Spanish ladies and gentlemen.  We then came to the plaza des Armes to hear the music-- and took ice cream.

        Tuesday -Today we  must finish off our letters  - and in answer to them will hear from you in New Orleans.  Raining hard again.  They tell us this weather is unusual for this time of year.  At all events it is very disagreeable, for we are like prisoners when we cannot go out.  The heavy doors have to be shut up and only a small pane of glass each side to see out of.  Henry Kips has a sore throat, and  going?  on my?.  Clara  and  Bob both writing their friends and to  Lottie  ____.  You must have_____ shown you his  letter and can these too.  Miss Clara likes it here and I hope my little girl keeps well and is obedient.  It seems as if we have been gone much longer than we have, for we have seen so much. Give love to dear Auntie Bush, Maria, Henry, Lottie, and all - Eve, Dirk, and Sea___, we think  of you all very often.  We shall expect letters from home again on Thursday when the Morro Castle comes in.

       We absolutely hunger for them and can realize in truth that  hoping deferred maketh the heart sick.

Good by again and love and kisses to you all---

               Aff yours, Sara

Send all letters after this to New Orleans, La.  That is all the address necessary.                                                                                  Tuesday Jan 29 Robert D Hayes, New Orleans - La                                                                                                                   p75

                                                               Havana, Feb. 3 , 1867

My darling people all,

Your letters dated the 12th we received by the Morro Castle Friday. They had a very stormy passage and were nearly a week in coming.  Bob was terribly disappointed in not hearing from Henry Sizer and Bert.  He has written to the latter twice now, and thought if there was anything he desired to know, he would have written, for he says he mentioned anything about the house he could possibly think of, but would be very likely to forget some things.   He will write this steamer to Henry again ---.  We  have been sightseeing everywhere, I think, in this city.  Not a street or place that we have not seen. The past few days Henry Kips has had a bad sore throat, and  we found he was going to be

quite sick, so we gave up going to a plantation this week. But now he is quite well again, and we are making our preparations to go into the country Monday.

We have visited the “Cemetery” here and should since have gone if we had been told of the sights we should see beforehand.                    There are four walls surrounding a courtyard of green grass  - like such places -- and each wall is four tiers high containing each a niche large enough for one coffin, about five hundred on each side, and it holds twelve thousand in all, not counting the ground itself -- This is  dug into deep pits --Those  who are unable to buy a niche, are thrown into these pits without a coffin --only a scanty covering on them, when the pit is full with the dead it is covered with lime, then filled up at the end of the month  - they are dug up and what remains of them are burnt. -- Now  we saw  them burning  -- also a funeral - and  the digging up of others.  We suppose of course these are no longer buried than a month until we were told they have decomposed by the aid of lime so quickly.

                                                                                        p77                         Even those who can afford to buy a niche pay $110 for10 years, which is the longest time they will be leased -- and then it can be reused,  but suppose none of their friends are living -- The body is taken out and thrown into these pits and then burned up.  The government has the leasing of it. You can see they even make money by the dead.  Did you ever hear of such a horrible thing?  Oh! how sad it made me feel.  I fairly wept and thanked God indeed we live in a Christian land and could lie undisturbed in our last long home.  Those who pretend to be indifferent as to what becomes of their bodies after death should see such a sight as this to appreciate the inestimable blessings of being laid asleep by loving hands.---

       Henry Kip did not go with us, for he was sick -- Clara, as usual, has another gentleman on hand, “Mr. Eames” of New York, his father has a place at Coldwater on the Hudson near “Mr. Rossiter”. Was not Laura engaged to his brother who was killed while riding horseback --  Laura held his head when dying.  Don’t you remember “Em”? --this is the only son now.  He knows Laura Sterling - Laura  Hilliard of course.  He is going to Paris from here to meet his family who are abroad.  He is traveling for his health -- has his “Mr.” with him. Very pleasant and nice and as Clara say he is of use because he can tote her about.  She tells me about the report of her being engaged to Albert, his  mother having said so - which neither Bob nor I believe for she is not that kind of a woman.                                                                                 

       Next I don’t think Albert is in love with Clara.  I think he likes to be with her for the very reason that he knows she don’t care for him either.  You fret yourself unnecessarily, I assure you!  Engaged people generally correspond which is not the case here.  She has face (?) always please best(?)  with her --- My opinion is, if she wrote hers to Lottie Lockwood, and some to her own people, she would be better off, and not continually getting into lesapers(?,) as I do  not hesitate to  tell her---

        We, that is Bob and I, went all through a Jesuit College the other day, about two hundred and fifty boys are educated there.  Every branch of knowledge taught - music and drawing - chemistry and so with skills (?) appropriate to each -- also a Church called Church of Bethlehem, connected  with it-- this and another called  Santa Therese are perfectly beautiful --one  is all blue and silver -- the other crimson and gold -- thirteen life size statues, representing different saints, Christ, and the Virgin Mary are all dressed in the most gorgeous robes --of real satin and lace and velvet -- stiff with gold embroidery, and crusted with precious stones.                                                                                        

       The  front of the altar is silver and a silver temple containing the host -- over which was a canopy of real silk and satin --- I never saw so much glitter.

Candles playing with light upon the altar, magnificent jewels--everything to please the eye.  There was also a convent connected with the Santa Theresa  church -- heavy wooden gratings separating the nuns from us--

       We  have also attended German ball, and had an opportunity to see  Cuban ladies, who are far from pretty,  made up of powder and paint, and the Cuban dances, about which we have heard so much , very  ___ and  strange it was --We were late in coming away, danced any number of times, plenty of partners for “Americanas”  and went to Mr. “Joseph  Grimes” to supper. Mr. Grimes has been particularly polite to us.  Has sent his carriage for us to ride several times.   He gave a small entertainment for us Thursday evening last, and gave us, knowing that we         p80

were anxious to become acquainted with creole dishes that were so funny to us.  One was called  Hegote -a kind of chicken soup served in tea cups with small coffee spoons.  The chicken trussed fine and a little rice and crust put in some strange cais? and  dulces.?  We enjoyed ourselves very much.  In fact we shall never  be able to repay his kind attention.        

       His wife is perfectly lovely, her Mother is here with her now this winter. He inquired so particularly about Buffalo, we did not know but what he thought of coming there to settle, he wants to  leave Havana.-- He is quite rich.  Always spends his summers   north.--

       It has rained every Sunday but one, since we have been here, but clears up in time for us to take a pleasant drive at  night, which is the time to drive out here -- the houses being all lighted up, we have an opportunity of seeing inside very nicely, all the windows and doors being open.

       I am afraid Henry Kip will frighten his mother somewhat by telling her he was quite ill. (He made more fuss, I can tell you                         than poor Bob who looked so bad, and slept none for ten nights) and had an appetite while it was as much as the “Mr. Caso” could do to keep Henry from eating . I did not think he could be very sick, and eat as he did and does.  People do not usually who are sick.  The tretor(sp) told him he was a baby --  Don’t take this letter up to Mrs. Kip.  She would be incensed at that . -- I heard from her by the last steamer. She said Mother had so many engagements she had to line up to see her.  I am very glad, I can say, she would give her something that her horses of children could stand, but ours could not.  We are obliged to write our letters for home today, or we are going tomorrow at half past five.  A Mr. to the Harmonia Estate arrived, by the Marquis Aldama, one of the  wealthiest planters here. We received our invite last week - - but Henry not feeling well deferred going until this.  We shall stay a couple of days --and return to Matanzas, the small pox has abated and there is no fear, I believe.  We hate to leave this island without seeing that wonderful cave and valley -- a great number of Americans have been there so we are going to venture.

        The Morro Castle leaves here Wednesday the 6th, taking to you a barrel of oranges from Robert -- and one to Uncle Henry from Henry. We hope p82         that they will reach you all right. The boys have taken particular pains about them - they presented their letters to “Mo. Bombalier”, the express superintendent here. He said the would take especial care that they should not be frozen and got out a free permit to deliver them immediately to United States Express in New York.         Also wrote to Mr. Thayer, to pay all charges, so we do hope that you will get them all right, and for once have all the oranges you can eat.  When we have anything particularly nice in the way of fruit we always wish you dear people were here to enjoy it too.  We shall get our letters when we return, probably, and be able to write once more from here before we leave, which we expect to do on the 12th now, by the Liberty.  There has been so much confusion we have not been able to learn exactly what was true about the steamers -- but have taken passage in that.  I hope Mother will keep my dear little darling.  I enjoy her letters very much. I  suppose, though, it is a great care to you to have to tell her how to spell the  words.  Maria will have a nice time in New York.  Will she take her baby too?  Give her much love -- also Aunty B, Henry, and  Fred?.  I am afraid the  former will have his patience sorely tried with our house, but if it gets done someway it will be so infinitely better than what I have had I shall be contented, and unutterable thanks Henry for his troubles.  Kiss the children for me, Em.   We devour both your letters and then it don’t seem enough.   Much love to Henry Frick and Lill---.  We shall write again as soon as we get back.  Love to Louise Wilkerson.  I thought I should be able to write but there are so many relatives to keep posted I shall have to give it up--

       Affectionately Yours,

                Sara                                                                                                                                                                                       

My own little girl,

Mama never forgets to add a few lines to you, and thank you for your little letters.  I hope you are improving very much at school, so that very soon you may not have to trouble your Aunty or Uncles to tell you how to spell the words.  Do you know Elizabeth has not heard a word from her little girls, now I want you to tell them to write to her, because I know she  wants to hear, and she listens very eagerly when I read to her what Grandma writes about  them --Mama does not think it very kind that her mother has not written.  Do you know it is so warm here that all the little children wear is a white chemise -  nothing  else, not stocking  or shoes -- We  see  plenty of soldiers all the time.  I suppose  you would like that very much--  Are you very  kind to Lena -- I hope  so -- You must go over to the house and see that it is getting on all right.                                                                                            p84

       If Grandma thinks it best for you to go to the Harvey dress? , you can. Your dress is in the band box in the storage room,  and your silk stockings were with your clothes---but you must do just as Grandma says for it may be very cold, you know.  Now I shall  hope  to  hear of your being a very good girl.  Do you always remember your Papa and Mama in your prayers? Oh!  How  I hope you keep will keep well until Mama can hug you right up in her  arms.  Papa will  write a ew  words--  Good  bye little precious.

Your own-- Mama

My dear little daughter,

The same day that  you get this letter there will come to Grandma a whole barrel of Oranges for all of you people on the square, and this is the way you must fix them so that you and Lena  can eat them without making a rumpus in your little “storm jackets”.  Stick a fork clear into one end and then with a sharp knife cut the orange at right angles to the fork , and about half or three  quarters of an inch from it through the peel.  Then cut a slice off the  other end, just as you would from a lemon, to suck it.  Then slice off the peel through which the fork goes. Then use the fork for a handle, and eat from the side.  This is meant to be a picture of the orange when ready for eating.  Tell Grandma she must  experiment till she gets it right.  By this way you get all of the juice and pulp and none of the indigestible part.   Good bye my precious -- Very soon I shall see  you.

Your own Papa

February 6 th

Dearest Mother,                                                                         p85

I always go back to the date of sending off my letters that you may be kept fully posted as regards our doings, so last Tuesday evening the House gave a ball.  Do Dunes and wife, also a number of Cubans, and some of our New York friends were to leave next day on the Steamer, so we had a  gay time.  Very beautiful table too -- Bob had to put a stop to my dancing.  I was enjoying it with too great a vengeance on my past sickness.

Wed. we went shopping  with Mrs Tures and lunched at her house.   I thought of buying black satin slippers, Em, and with

a heel for $1.50 --  no money when you paid $9 for mine in New York last winter.  We had a  number of calls in the evening, but answered Don Minn and wife being amongst the number who favored us.  Henry still continues being indisposed.  We concluded if we waited for him we would be very late in seeing outside things about the island, so we made our preparations to leave for “Mariano”, Thursday at one o’clock.

Clara, Bob, and I went. We passed a  number of sugar estates and  enjoyed a fine vision of the surrounding country.  Reaching these we found where “Mrs. Almay’s” hotel was, (she has left the city),  introduced ourselves.  She of course remembered “Sue” Milanis. Her house is a very p87 pleasant one, but so quiet. She had but a few boarders.  We made arrangements to dine there, and then started for a drive to the beach.  It is quite long, the drive I mean,  and through palm trees, groves  of them,  and dense shrubbery.  A most charming view by the sea.  Picked up  numberless shells, and wandered “by the sad sea waves”.   Surveyed with great interest the wreck of a stockade runner, and would like to have prolonged our stay, but it was getting near dinner time.  We have but two meals a day in this country, and when the hour arrives for each,  we generally are found to be on hand.  We hastened through our dinner in order to catch the train and as you see, made altogether a very flying  trip, but quite long enough to do the  places.  On Friday we concluded to again go out without Henry.  Mr. Barthel who is trading  with Mr. James of New York joined our party and we left for Matansas, a little afraid of the small pox and yet venturing.                                                                                     

       It is quite a few hours drive and we  were detained and did not reach there until near dark, so after dining we went to bed early to rise in good season for our day’s sightseeing.  Seven o'clock came all too soon, but still we were on hand, after breakfast, prepared to sally forth.  The Mr. and Bob mounted on two fine horses, we in a two horse gallanti, all in style.  This fresh expedition was to the caves of Belleman by the sea shore and some very rough riding  when we went up the hills, but these vehicles are very easy and so one can stand any amount of bouncing without much inconvenience aside from a soreness in one’s seat which is rather uncomfortable.  Upon reaching the house at the entrance to the caves we ladies proceeded to the dressing room, Hopkins and - I was going to say -almost denuded of apparel. I must ask Bob to make a sketch.  We were really beautiful when we went in, but Oh!, when we came out, My! It is  really opressingly warm, so the less one wears, the better.   Armed and  equipped with a bottle of ale and brandy, headed by the guide with a torch, and taking  a last whiff of fresh air,  we  commenced to descend by a long flight of stairs, and     p90  through a place, deep chasms on all sides, then another flight of stairs and we are fairly started on our way.

       It  would be impossible to accurately describe to you on paper the wonders of these caves.  In some  places, single file and stooping very low,  we entered into spacious chambers, the stalactites of brilliant whiteness and transparency, reflecting  back our lights,  very weird and beautiful.  Of course there are any quantity of names bestowed upon the different shapes which these stalactites form,  and which do bear a very wonderful  resemblance to “A Bishops’ Chair”.  Also a gothic gallery, etc. It was dreadfully warm.  We fortified ourselves with a long pull at the brandy bottle and still kept on.                                    

       I cannot tell you the distance we walked but as Bob very justly observed you would have been utterly astonished at me, and think I had made wonderful progress indeed.

       We were perfectly drenched with perspiration when we reappeared  to the ground, and well tired but very glad  we had  persisted, for it is a sight worth seeing and remembering.   After waiting until we were sufficiently cooled so as to not take cold, we all remounted and set out to the  “Folly of the Yarimi”.  It was a very long and beautiful drive and had  already commenced to be very warm - still  we enjoyed it hugely.  When upon the summit -- overlooking this beautiful valley. I think we never saw  such a lovely scene.  If  we could only have sketched it, the little farmhouses nestling behind the palm trees way below and the  different colored (?)  made a picture which we will not soon forget.  From here we drove on to a sugar estate belonging to a Don Jenkins and we saw all the machinery for the grinding although they were not going to commence until Sunday,  and also saw the boiling house and tasted of the sugar. Another curiosity must not be forgotten and that was the “bares”, as we  called them.  I mean the naked negro children.  They do not wear a stitch of clothes until they are at least five years of age.  Pleasant, when driving out with gentlemen,  to meet them at every corner.  We got back to the hotel quite late for dinner  p93  then walked through the Plaza and different streets.  We were obliged to remain in during the evening, it rained so.  We  played  euchre __ and sang.  Bright and early at 4 o’clock on Sunday we were up to take the early train, dreadful, I know, but still we did not wish to remain over Sunday, for you see, the steamer may leave Tuesday.  We could not get a galanti so early and it is a great ways to the depot.  The conductor we had made friends with, and while we  were making preparations to walk, he made his appearance at the hotel with an old wagon and a mule.  A box in the wagon to sit upon.  Most politely we were invited to ride, so rather than walk, we accepted and  mounted.  p96.

                       (Pages 94 and 95 are not in the Diary.)

We have written by every steamer without fail but Robert has not been as favored as any of the rest of us.  So, have Mollie keep  her Papa's’ letters for she will prize them when older.  Dear little Ducky, I hope she is well, how often I think of her, and hope she gives you very little  trouble.  Believe me, Dear Mother, we appreciate your loving care most truly -- Auntie Bert must be lonely without Maria, give much love to her.  We see the Buffalo papers.  They are sent to Henry by his friends, and it seems to bring us nearer home  as we read them.  I wish we could bring warm weather back with us.  It has been to us very cold, although it is not below sixty-eight degrees.  We shall feel the change very much north.                                                  p97

       I may not return, you know, with the rest of the party, but I am so afraid shall not have the courage to remain behind.  The steamer, Eagle, leaves on Wednesday and will take our letters, I  think.  The Morro Castle must have had a very stormy time judging from the northerners we are having here. It blows terrifically.  There is a vessel wrecked this morning about 25 miles from here.  150 passengers on board, all saved but lost everything,  The waves wash way over Morro Lighthouse putting out the light.  When they have a hurricane here it amounts to something.

       Tuesday- Keeping my letter open until the  last moment.  Dr. Jovens (?)  and family spent the evening with us and a few others.  We had a little  entertainment for them.  p98  We hear the steamer will sail tomorrow if not too rough so we are making today our last minute preparations.  Mercy! knows I hope it will clear before we  leave.

       Have been out driving to the Marquis of Luis, brought back a lovely bouquet orange blossoms.  Such a  perfume fills the  room from them as I write.  I think you would not be very much distressed with Clara’s constancy, could you see her with this Mr. Eames, it is well we  leave soon.  Our  letters go today - Wednesday.  Not yet left, but expect it’s tomorrow ---  No letters from you and no prospect of getting them before we  leave unless a fishing smack comes in from Key West --- I feel so bad --

Good bye my dear ones all .                                                           

I hope we shall reach New Orleans in safety, but I dread the voyage.  Love to one and all.

Affectionately, Sara

Sat. Feb. 16, 1867

Havana

At last my dear ones your letters have reached us, they came from “Key West” on a steamer last night after we had given up all hopes of getting them and  were  brought to us early this morning by Mr. Springer of the  consulate from  weeks ago, they were  written Jan 19.  We ought to have received them a week ago.  In the same ludget was one from Lottie Birt and Aunt Charlotte,  it was perfectly delightful to hear from Pace.  Ah! only those who are so far away from home as we are  p100 can tell with what eagerness we look forward to  the arrival of the steamers.  You see we are still in Havana---  No Liberty made its appearance until this morning and she does  not leave before Monday.  So we have stayed here a week longer than we anticipated and this last week has rather dragged.  When one makes up their mind to leave and get packed, you feel you want to start then.   We have  not escaped the storms you had at the North and it is that which has delayed the steamer so --- Think of the waves mountains high dashing on Morro Lighthouse, a distance of about 100 feet--there are about 120 steps up to the light and then you see the distance from the water is very great.  Went down Sunday to the  Castle Bella Punta to see this sight. (p101) Oh! how the waves came rolling in, and I am afraid I did not echo the boys wish very heartily, that the Liberty would come in -- as she stays but a day, and I did not wish to enjoy a storm at sea---  there are a great  number of vessels wrecked upon the coast, and the wind does not seem lulled as yet---  Bright and early Monday morning, we take our departure , having thoroughly DONE Havana.  I feel better than any of you seem to realize.  Aunt Charlotte’s letter cautioned me over and over again about taking care.  Now I really DO, but I am so much better, none of you seem to understand.  It is really Bob who is the invalid now.   His asthma is very, very bad, and what is more it continues through the day, more or less, giving him  an intractable headache almost all the  time.  He has  grown quite thin, and I feel more worried about him than myself.  Evidently the climate does not agree with him here.  One reason why we have been so anxious for the steamer to come, hoping the change to New Orleans may benefit him.  We have urged him to let the others go home and  we try Florida, but he thinks we ought to be home, we have been too long away.  He ought to be the one,  if any, to remain behind,  but you cannot convince him.  We  do not reach home until the second  week in March, and that is the worst month.  Bob seems to think the house is going wrong.  He often --  wonders what “Allison” could mean, he certainly ought to  understand his ideas by this time about different things. The front hall, for instance -- If he saw it way too small a landing, we  had much rather do without the closet altogether as Bob wrote to Henry--

       You precious old dear, you. I wish we could send you a drawing of all our bare arms that you might see we are all right.   None  of them “took”, not even Elizabeth’s.  I ought to except Bob’s - but it is well now--. Take to your couch in peace, Mama dear, we  have none of us got the small pox.

       Henry Kip is going to Matanzas this afternoon to see the  caves, and other sights, returning tomorrow afternoon.  Mr. Springer of the consulate accompanies him.  We do not like him to lose the  opportunity. It seems a shame to  leave that island without seeing all the sights.  Wednesday --  we heard of a famous church we had not seen, so jumping into a galanti Bob, Henry and  I started to find it. Church of Mucide.  It is one of the oldest in the city, built by the Dominicans first, and recently refitted.  It is a very imposing building.  A number of columns of  marble support the roof, floors and stairs of marble, various life-size statues adorned with most exquisite embroidery, silks and satins.  In a temple of white marble above the altar, and covered with a curtain -- which was drawn aside for us -- was a statue of  the  Virgin Mary literally covered with precious stones of every kind and the rays of golden glory adorn her head.  A very dazzling  sight to us even, and to these poor  p105  benighted heathen, I do not wonder with all their Jesuitical tricks they believe it real religion.

       We have spent Wednesday and Thursday evening upon the  Plaza listening to the beautiful music and  watching the numbers of people who throng the Plaza.  At nine the band ceases to play and we walk across the street to a cafe for some of their unknown ices.   We have to remain in the dark as to what we are eating.  But I think none of their ice or sweets quite as nice as our own.  Really home cannot be improved upon.

       We have a number of calls through the day for our circle of acquaintances seems to extend.  Generally after breakfast, which we take  between nine or ten,   we drive down town if we have any shopping or calls to make, and hurry as we may do we never seem to get back before three, then a short nap and engagements for the evening.   Friday we had several calls and amongst the “Mines”.  Bob has a “petite soupris” for them.  They have made our visit extremely pleasant and we feel countless obligations to them.  Clara  has been EXCEEDINGLY  occupied with a  Mr. James,  I told you, of New York, for a flirtation.  I should say it was going rather too fast, fortunately as the young gentleman leaves for Spain, not intending to return until next winter.  Bob and I have both spoken to her which she quite resents, giving us to understand she is quite independent,  and will  p107  brook no interference in her affairs, which is very far from our intention.  Traveling with us we do feel a little responsibility which she thinks is quite unnecessary.  Understand me, we do not think the gentleman to be at all serious, and would therefore wish her to be more discrete, but as she very justly observes, we have done our duty by speaking to her, and that is enough.  It certainly has not contributed toward making this last week very agreeable.  And we are congratulating ourselves we leave him behind on Monday.  And as I have not only great faith in Clara’s constancy, it will not hurt anybody away from here, but most decidedly unpleasant just now.        People, when traveling together cannot be quite so independent of one another -- and that OTHER , a young lady, who should learn to be discrete.

        We have been to the Governor’s Palace but it doesn’t amount to much.  Very large, barren and bare.

       I am glad you are pleased with our letters, and that they give you some idea, what we have been doing.  I always feel -- as if I had failed to convey to you half I wish to say -- Please say to Lottie how much pleasure her letter gave me and I have some leaves all pressed but cannot tell her the name of one.  I would like to write to Louise Wilkenson, Jennie King, and others so I first thought I could but, I always feel as if there were so many  relations to keep posted and to whom I do write that I really have not the time to attend to those outside.  Please give my love to all and thank them for their remembrances.

       I am glad you attended to Mollie’s bonnet. I know she did need one indeed.  You say it looks well enough with the old velvet.  If not, get new.

       You may be sure, quite sure, anything you think it is best to fix, dear Mother, will be all right to me, and I can never half tell you how much your love and kindness is appreciated.  Dear Eve, we read your letters and sigh for more.  What a lovely time all must have had at the “Old Settlers Festival” from the glowing - p110--description.  Henry Kip has once in a while explained he would have liked to have been at home to have enjoyed this or that, and truly we have all shared the wish.  How hard it is for us to realize the cold and snow that you are having, although it had been cooler here than for a long time back.  In the middle of the day it brings the moisture to one’s brow, I assure you. The moonlight nights we are having are so clear you can read with the most perfect ease, and to take a drive upon the Cerro and to see the shadow of the tall palms reflect upon the ground like so many giants, and the stone houses  illuminated  which you can see at  great distances -- p111-- seem like the magical picture.  I told you in my last letter, they have made $300,000 and expect to make still more-- what do you think of  that? -- Everything is contributed and sold at twenty cents a tafrio --as one calls them -- half of which are blanks.

       Henry and Bob went aboard the Liberty last night to see what accommodations we could get, eighty two passengers.  They did not give us a glowing description of the  vessel. No - - - staterooms were very dark.  We do not anticipate an elegant trip.  It is two weeks before another steamer.  In the present state of the funds, think we had better get where they can be replenished.  Sat upon our balcony last evening entertaining Mrs. Mac Cormack --- of New Orleans who is now here, and whom Clara met in Cleveland  last summer- also Mr. James and Wheeler.  Bob brought home from the city some preserves and jellies-- where I am to pack them is more than I can tell.  Elizabeth’s Mother must have a great affection for her.  She has not heard from them once. It is through our letters she hears of her children.  Mollie evidently has not been as well as hinted before. I must find out what you do in order to succeed as you have done in order to keep her in such good health.   If I could only smuggle through some of the Irish linen sheetings they have here -$1.25 per yard-- Oh so fine.  We send this letter to you by Steamer Columbia.  We think it may reach you a day or two sooner than if mailed from New Orleans. - p 113 --After receiving this you will not be able to write again.  We shall stay a week in New Orleans and it takes about 10 days to reach  home.  Bob insists that I stay behind but I think not. .  Love to all the relatives -when?  Wouldn’t Auntie Bert be comfortable here today.  Hot it is and no mistake and I am writing in a sack and skirt.  Clara out driving with Mr. James, Bob down town, Elizabeth reading. Sunday night you see it is but one can scarcely realize such a thing as the Sabbath here.  The very last item I can tell you about ourselves.  I hope we shall reach New Orleans in safety.  The vessel is very crowded and loaded with sugar.   Love  to all -

Affectionately, Sara --

Dear Precious Mollie,

       I dreamed of you all last night and feel as if I should dearly like to kiss you.  Mama made Papa draw these pictures for you and if he had had time would have sent more.  We have not had any letters for two weeks . Thursday the steamer took them all to Key West.  Mama feels very badly for I think now we shall not get them before we  leave for New Orleans. I hope you go over to the house sometime to see if it is getting on all right.  Elizabeth is very well and sends a great deal of love to you and her children.  You go to school regularly I hope, and must try to improve all you can. Do you ever go and see Jennie and Annie Waterson?  Now give Grandma as little trouble as you can.  That is a good girl, and kiss Lena for me.  I suppose you will think Papa’s pictures very funny, but the  picture is just exactly like the wagon we were in.  Goodbye my own precious little girl.  Mama hopes to see you very soon.  With much love,

Mama

                                                              

(p115 is blank)

My Dearest little girl.

One more letter from this far away place.  The next will be from the City of New Orleans, which as your geography will tell you is in our own country.  And in a little while  after that Aunty Clara and Papa will be in Buffalo but I’m afraid  Mama will have to stay in the  land of sunshine a little longer.  Yesterday we all went down in a cave under the ground at Matanzas, a city seventy or eighty miles from here.  Mama and Aunty Clara had to take off their  hoops and  go through a long dark hole, to sometimes have her hair taken off.  Then we rode up a high hill to see the Valley of the Yumlari ten or twelve  miles long  and shaped like  a very deep platter with hundreds  of  plantations and thousands of palm and orange trees. Though it was winter it was so hot that Papa had to carry Mamma’s parasol.   p 117.  You can see what a figure he cut. (drawing of Papa on horseback).  This morning we got  up a little after 4 to come back to Havana, dark as a pocket and not coach or volante near; so we mounted the baggage wagon and jolted along to the depot.  Papa and Mamma and Dr. Bartlett and Aunty Clara all sitting on a box, with the porter and conductor in front, and a little darkie under the seat--- Here  we  are at the depot  (picture)  with the coolie ringing the bell ---  Paradero-Ferro Carril Para Havana. Good night my precious girl.  Give lots of love to Grandma and Lena, from Papa.

(p 118  is blank.)

p119.  Saturday Feb. 16.  At last your  letters have reached us.  They came from Key West in a steamer last night after we had  given up all hope of getting them, and even brought to us early this morning by Mr. Springer of the Consulate.  Four weeks ago they were written, dated Jan 29  We ought to have received  them a week ago.  In the same bundle was one from Lottie Burt and Aunt Charlotte.  It was perfectly delightful to hear from you all.  Ah!  Only those who are so far way from home as we are can tell with what eagerness we look forward to the arrival of the steamer.  You see, we are still in Havana.  No Liberty made its appearance until this morning and she does not leave before  Monday. So we have staid here a week longer than we anticipated, and this last week HAS RATHER dragged.  When one makes up their minds to leave and get packed you feel you want to start  THEN.  We have not escaped the storm you had at the north.  It is  that which has delayed -- p120-- the steamers so. .  Bright and early Monday morning we take our departure having thoroughly done Havana far better than any of you seem to realize at home. Aunt Charlotte’s letter was cautioning me over and over again about taking care.  Now I really DO but I am so very much better, you none of you seem to understand.  It is Bob, really, who is the invalid now.  His  asthma is really VERY, VERY bad.  He has never had so severe an attack.   And what is more, it continues through the day, more or less, gives him an intense headache almost all the time.  He has grown quite thin , and I really feel more worried about him than myself.  Evidently the climate does not agree with him here, and that is one reason why we have been anxious for the steamer to come, hoping the change to New Orleans may benefit him.  We have urged and urged him to let the others go on here and he and myself try Florida, but home he will go. He thinks he ought to be there; we have been too long away.

Now really he ought to be the one, if any, to remain behind, but you cannot convince him of the fact, and as we have been so long away I think I shall return with the rest of the party. We do not reach home until the second week in March and that will be the  worst month. If Bob would be persuaded to remain longer for his own good, I should press the matter, but he seems to think the house is all going wrong and he must be there.  Often wonders what Allison could mean when he certainly ought to understand his ideas by this time about certain things, the front hall for instance-- If he saw it was too small a landing we had much rather do without a closet altogether, as Robert wrote to Henry Burt.

       Clara is well - all the rest of us now in fact but Bob.  You precious old dear, you.  I wish we could send you a drawing of all our bare arms that you might see  p 122 that we are all right. None of them took--- not even Elizabeth’s---  Ah---  I ought to except Bob’s. His did, but is now quite well.  Seek your couch in peace, Mama dear, we haven’t any of us got the small pox.

        Henry Kip is going to Matanzas this afternoon to see the  caves and other sights, returning tomorrow afternoon.  Mr. Springer of the Consulate accompanied him.  We do not like to lose the opportunity and it seems a shame to leave  the island without seeing all the sights.   What have  we been doing this week after sending off the letters.  Wednesday we heard of a famous church we had not seen, so, jumping  into a volante Bob, Henry, and I started off to see it,  the church of Merced.  It is

one of the oldest in the city, built by the Dominicans first, and  afterwards refitted.  It is a very imposing building. A number of columns of marble support the roof,  flooring of marble and stairs  also, and various life-sized statues of  marble adorned with most exquisite embroidery, silks, and satins.  In a  temple of white marble,  and above  the  altar and  covered with a curtain (which was drawn aside for us) was a statue of  the Virgin Mary,  literally covered with  precious stones of every kind. p 123 And the rays of golden glory above her head; a very dazzling sight to us even and to those poor benighted heathen.  I do not wonder with all these Jesuitical tricks,  they believe it real religion.

       We have spent Wednesday and Thursday evenings upon the Prado, and listening to the beautiful music and watching the countless numbers of people who throng the plaza. At nine the band ceases to play and we walk across the street to a cafe for some of their unknown ices.  We have to remain in the dark as to what we are eating, but I think none of their ices or sweets are  quite as nice as our own.  Really - home cannot be improved upon. We have a great number of calls during the day for our circle of  acquaintances seems to extend.  Generally after breakfast, which we take between 9 and 10, we drive down town if we have any shopping or calls to make, and hurry as one may, we do not seem to get back before three -  then a short nap and dress for dinner and engagements for the evening.  Friday night we had several  acquaintances calling, among them the Downs  family.  Robert had a  “petite soufer” for them -- had  a  very pleasant evening.  They have made p 124 our visit extremely pleasant, and we feel under countless obligations to them. Clara has been exceedingly occupied with a Mr. James for a flirtation. I should say it was going rather far particularly since the young gentleman leaves for Spain and not intending to return until next winter. Bob and I have both spoken to her which she quite resents, giving us to understand she is quite independent and will brook no interference in her affairs, which is very far from our intention - traveling with us we do feel a little responsibility which she thinks is quite unnecessary. Understand me, we do not think the young gentleman to be at all serious, and therefore wish her to be more discreet, but as she very justly observes, we have done our duty by speaking to her, and that is enough. It certainly has not contributed toward making this last week very agreeable, and we are congratulating ourselves that we are leaving him behind on Monday,  and as I have not a very great faith in Clara’s constancy, it will not hurt anybody away from here, but it is decidedly unpleasant just now. People cannot, when traveling, be quite so independent of one another - and that other a pretty young lady p125 who should learn to be discreet.

       We have been to see the Governor’s palace but it don’t amount to much - very large, barren and bare.

       I am glad that you are pleased with our letters, and that they give you some idea of what we have been doing. I always feel, however, as if I had failed to convey to you half I wish to say. Please say to Lottie how much pleasure her letters gave me, and I have the leaves all pressed but cannot tell her the names of one. I would like to write to Louise Wilkenson, Jeanie King, and others as I first thought I could, but I always feel as if there were so many relatives, who ought to be kept posted, and to whom I do write that I really have not the time to attend to those outside. Aunt Maria and Charlotte, I try to write to you often. Please give my love to all  and thank them for their remembrances. I am very glad you attended to Mollie’s bonnet. i know she did need one indeed. You say it looks well enough with the old velvet, if not, get new. You may be sure, quite sure, anything you may think it best to fix, dear mother, will be all right to me; and I can never half tell you how much your loving kindness is appreciated.

       Dear Eva, we read both your letters and sigh for more. What a lovely time all must have had. p126 at the old settlers festival, from your glowing descriptions. Henry Kip has once in a while exclaimed he would like to have been at home to enjoy this or that, and truly we have all echoed the wish. How very hard it is for us to realize the cold and snow which you are having. Although it has been colder here than for a long time back, in the middle of the day it brings the moisture to one’s brow, I assure you. Oh, if I could begin to describe to you the moonlight nights we are having, they are so clear you can read with the most perfect ease, and to take a drive as we often do upon the Cerro, and see the shadows of the tall palms cast upon the ground, seeming like so many giants, and the stone houses illuminated, which you can see at great distances makes a magic picture. A fair is being held here; I told you in my last that we went to it, well - it still continues and they have made $300,000! - What do you think of that? Expect to make still more. Everything is contributed and sold at $.20 a taper, as we called them, and half, if not more, blanks. Henry and Bob went on board the “Liberty” last night to see what accommodations we could get - Eight two passengers! They did not give us a glowing description of the boat either. No deck of any account, state rooms very small. We do not anticipate an elegant trip. It is two weeks before another steamer. In the present state of the funds, think we had better get where they can be replenished. Sat upon our balcony last evening, bright moonlight - entertaining Mr. McCormack of new Orleans, who is now here, and whom Clara met in Cleveland last summer - Also Messrs James and Wheeler. Bob brought home from the city the greatest quantity of preserves and jellies. Where in the mischief I am to pack them is more than I can conceive, but you know those things will come very handy. Elizabeth’s mother must have great affection for her; she has not heard once, and it is only through our letters that she hears of her children, Mollie evidently has not been as well a winter before. You must treat her well, and I must find out what you do in order to succeed as you have done in helping her in such good health - If only I could smuggle through some of the Irish  linen they have here - ten shillings a yard 2 1/2 wide, and oh! so fine for sheeting, I mean, but it can’t be did. I’ll send this by the steamer Columbia. We think it may reach you in a day or two sooner than if we wanted until reaching new Orleans. After receiving this you cannot write to us again, for we may have left, and if we stop over anywhere it will be only a short time. You see we shall be a week in new Orleans, and it takes about ten days from there for us to reach home, which brings us into the second week in March. Bob insists he is going to leave me behind, but I think not!

       Love to all the relatives, Whew! Wouldn’t Auntie Ruth be comfortable here today. Hot it is, and no mistake. I am writing in sack and skirt, Clara has gone out to ride with Mr. James, Bob down town - Elizabeth reading. Sunday night you see it is, but one can scarcely realize such a thing as the Sabbath here - The very last item I can tell you about ourselves. I hope we shall reach New Orleans safely. the ship is very crowded, and loaded with sugar. Love to Eva and Dick, Willie and Henry.

       All yours,

               Sara.

       New Orleans, Sunday Feb. 2nd.

       Dearest folks. Here we are safe and sound in this city and heartily glad to get here I do assure you.

       My last letter  p129 dated from Havana Sunday night the 17th inst. and mailed by Mrs. Springer the 20th on the steamer Columbia has reached you ere this: My dear little girl’s came very near being lost. Her father left the sheets upon the table a moment before enclosing in the envelope and it was whisked off the table, and not discovered until we had got to bed, by Clara, so as I told you, so up I jumped to enclose it. If we were going to the bottom of the deep blue sea, I wanted my baby to have a few last lines.

       We got up at 6 o’clock, Monday, in the 8th inst., took only a cup of coffee and started for the “Liberty” which was anchored very far down in the Bay. We found her decks crowded with passengers, and the cry was “still they come.” Every single portion of that steamer was packed literally - we had on board too, the forty thieves (or thirty-nine Arabs, just the same), and steamed out of the harbor of Havana, 280 souls, a small propeller, mind you, not like the “Morro Castle” by a long way. We feared we should have to go without our baggage, for it did not arrive until the last moment, although it had been sent down an hour or

p 130 more before, but if one wants anything done in Cuba it should be commenced the day before. Our staterooms were the very last in the boat: horrible! So much so that Bob and I occupied the cabin floor, together with about twenty others. You can judge how crowded it was, but it was the only steamer for two weeks or more and so go we would. It was “Liberty” or death. We were very brave all of us, at first remaining upon deck - The sea was still very high from the late storm. After a couple of hours we (that is Clara, and then Elizabeth, and then I) gave in. Of course Bob had to take care of me, and my! if I did not make amends for not being very sick coming out! Why! I would just faint in between. It was horrid, horrid. Deliver me from going to sea again. The next day, Tuesday, they got us all on deck. We then commenced to get better, and Wednesday, felt quite bright and delighted, thinking we should get into New Orleans late that night. But it was not to be. A very heavy fog came on by dark and although we had nearly reached the bar, it could not be crossed so late. There had been an accident a few nights before - two steamers had run into each other and now, none were allowed to cross at night and many were aground. It was a very long tedious night and had to endure patiently, our discomforts were so great; but morning came at last. A driving rain storm, which it was hoped would dispel the fog, but not until eleven o’clock when we again started. We went over the bar. Oh! How thankful we were - three steamers aground, and I don’t know how many ships, all the passengers upon their decks surveying as with envious eyes, weren’t we glad?

       After entering the river, it was lovely, the farm houses and groves of oranges and magnolias were a pleasant sight to gaze upon, winding in and out of the crooked river. We passed the forts and thought of Admiral Farragut and fleet. Our opera glasses did duty - the day passed very quickly but we were very disappointed to hear from the Captain that it was impossible for us to reach the city until three or four o’clock Friday morning. Clara, Bob, Henry and many others decided to sit up, and if it was possible for us to get a coach, and find a hotel open at so late an hour, leave the boat even at that time, for otherwise we could not land before night, and another night on board was too much to endure.

       I lay down on one of the sofas, and was awakened by the clamor as we approached the levee. The custom house officer came aboard in the afternoon, and weren’t we in a twitter? Bob hurried us into our staterooms as we neared the levee, and we fastened on our extra bustles, or side bustles, in no time. Was that not an idea! But land! How I quaked! Bob then informed the captain and Purser we were going ashore. They had been very kind to us all through the trip. The officer would not however let us even take our satchels ashore so we carried our night clothes, playfully offered the officer our tooth brushes if he would like them, but not our extra skirts, and escorted Clara by the Purser, and I by the Captain, and followed by Bob, with Elizabeth and Henry, in the very face of the officers and two detectives, we went ashore, got into a carriage and drove off to the St. Louis Hotel. Didn’t we draw a long breath, oh my! We succeeded in getting comfortable quarters - It was Paradise indeed p133 to us - the luxury of a carpet was almost unknown. I am continually forgetting that I need not dive for my slippers, before getting out of bed, the first thing, and the bed and the pillows instead of a wad of cotton tucked into one’s ear. I assure you those we have had are not much larger. We had a lovely sleep - Bob was obliged to go down early for the baggage to be examined, but all say we were very fortunate in having a lenient officer this time, and a friend of the steward’s, whom Bob had propitiated, so our trunks were passed with only one being opened. * All were opened, but only one was examined (RPH). Friday we breakfasted in the restaurant connected with the hotel - the St. Louis Rotunda - (well?) how beautiful it is; that frescoing seems like marble - We admired it very much. We took our first walk up Canal St. How ashamed you would have been of us, staring like country greenies in every window, and the “ohs” and “ahs” could not be counted, I am sure. We went in the evening to the Southern Bazaar - you might have seen it noticed in the paper - for the relief of Southern soldiers wounded in the war Whew! Secesh  was no name for it as little blue iwas to be seen as could possibly be excluded. It was P  very tastefully and beautifully decorated like all other fairs but all the first young ladies served as waiters. Among them Miss Semmes the pirate’s daughter. We had, shall I call it, the pleasure of being served with clear punch at her hands, plenty of diamonds, but the dress of the ladies, with some exceptions, very common. I forgot to tell you that on our walk in the morning we met Captain Sturgeon coming to the hotel to see if we had arrived. We wrote to him some weeks ago we were coming. He gave us quite a mail, but one saw, by the papers, there were other letters for us, but having forgotten it was Washington’s Birthday, which also was quite excusable, as you would not know the fact, except by the closing of public offices, we did not get them until the next day when quite a batch was received from Buffalo and Rochester - one from Mr. Sibley, very long and interesting and very much appreciated for it is a rare thing for him to trouble himself much about the relatives. It was very kind in him. Saturday we went out shopping and visiting about all the stones, I guess. Next Captain Sturgeon who introduced us to Lieut. King who was with him and who, they say, is engaged to Ida Haven, they walked about with us, I like p135 New Orleans so much - far better than Havana  - not quite so warm - more like spring and spring violets are to be bought on every corner - their perfume is very delicious - ah! There is so much going on here I don’t wonder Wrile (?) liked it so well. We went to see John Owens in “Married Life” and “Solon Shingle” at the St. Charles Theater, which about used me up. This morning (Sunday) Clara and Henry, together with several of our fellow passengers, went to the french market, getting up at 6 o’clock. We were quite too tired to join them. They also went to the cathedral. Bob and I, after breakfasting, took a drive on the Matarie Road, through Common St. - Home again passing Greenwood Cemetery. The only difference I see here from Havana is that many seem to have a family tomb by itself instead of one of those niches, but all above ground. We also went to Jackson Square and the french market - came home to dress for dinner at four, and have spent the evening singing psalms and talking, quite a number of us, I am very much better indeed, but Eva, you forget it is not quite so much exertion, as we have had to do all these places, and also about them, as it would  p136 be to walk; so although it sounds as if, when we write home we were going continually, it is really not so. We have plenty of time to rest, or have had. Bob seems better today, has a better night, and coughs less. He got such a satisfactory letter from Henry Bunt, that he seems to have felt more at ease ever since. I was so glad. I shall never forget Hen’s kindness. I want Bob to stay a week or two longer and send Elizabeth home with Clara. I don’t think but what that would be proper and right. Henry would see to her well - Elizabeth being married and steady, I don’t think there would be anything out of the way in her going back from here under Henry’s charge, do you? If Bob will stay. Since he got Hen’s letter, he seemed to be more willing, but he may not do so - Nothing’s decided upon as yet.

Monday, Feb. 25th.

       Bob was up early to get a box for us at the theatre, to hear the famous Ristorii. We expect to go this evening. Our plans for today were all put an end to by the rain. We were going to drive out on the Shell Road to Lake  p137 Pontchartrain, and dine there. We shall go tomorrow, however. Have been out walking all the morning, quite a party of us.

       We are going to see the Arabs tomorrow evening. We want Clara to see all she can of New Orleans before going back. Bob decided to remain a short time longer with me, so we sent home Elizabeth. It is a useless expense having her remain, and Henry, Clara, and she will leave Thursday night in the steamer “W.S. Arthur,” quite new, goes to St. Louis. Bob will fix everything for them as nicely as possible. Calculating as we do, they will reach home March 12th at noon. Elizabeth, of course, is going home to her Mother’s until I need her again - I hope my little darling is well, and quite over her cold. Dear little Lena, how sick she must have been. I shall miss Clara very much indeed, and quite long to go back with her, but Bob has been improving the last day or two, and sleeps so comfortably, that I think it would be a pity until he is a little stronger. I feel quite well. Clara’s penchant for Mr. James seems not to have affected her greatly - out of sight, out of mind. We are all so afraid she will think seriously of anyone, that I suppose we take exception when she becomes at all intimate with any gentleman.

       This morning Mrs. Peacock called upon us. Eliza Donohue is quite sick, ague in the face. We are going there also tomorrow. She was very cordial, inquired after Aunty Bert and you, and wished to hear all the Buffalo News. Dear Mollie, you are a precious good little girl, I hope, and how you must have grown, to have all your dresses let out. Well I should think Grandma had gone through a complete renovation of your wardrobe. Clara will have lots to tell you I suppose. I shall write again when they leave. How lonely I shall be! Ristori is stopping here at the house, so we have had an opportunity of seeing her, face to face - quite a large, fine-looking woman. She plays Queen Elizabeth tonight.

       We surveyed with great interest the first flag which was hauled down by the rebels, and now floating over the custom house; also the window from which the traitor was hung. We shall see everything, never fear. Bob  is hurrying me so I shall have to cut short my letter with much left unsaid, for this must go at four o’clock. I think Bob’s decision to remain was made entirely after receiving Henry’s comforting letter that all was going on well. Now, give love to one and all of the relatives. Kisses for my own little girl, and Lena. I carry them in my heart always. Love to yourselves, and from us all.

       Aff. yours, Sara

I do hope Henry and Wille are both better. Too bad, isn’t it boys, to be shut up in the house; I sympathize with you.  p140

       New Orleans, Mch 1, 1867

My precious people all-

       I commence like a regular proclamation, don’t I? But I write to one and all of you. We received both Ev’s and Henry’s letters, and glad am I when I get news from home, if it is only one day later for it tells me you are all well, and then I feel so much happier. Now I wrote so recently that I’ve not much to tell you. We drove out on the Shell Road Tuesday to Lake Pontchartrain, took dinner in the same room that Willie and Bob dined in when he was here before - Went to hear Maggie Mitchell of the “Varieties” in the evening. Wednesday Clara and I were out shopping all the morning. I guess we have visited nearly every store on Canal Street. We went out to see Eliza Donohoe after dinner. She lives on Prytania St. and such a ways out. However we had a pleasant drive and an opportunity of seeing more of the city. We had a pleasant call - She was very cordial  her house is very cozy. We got back so late that there was no time to go anywhere that evening. Thursday, Clara and Elizabeth packed up. We thought they would go on the “W.S. Arthur,” but it was not in, and so it was decided to take the “Continental.” We were rather sorry for it came in the day they left, and they might have waited and gone today, but the ticket could not be changed. We fixed her as comfortably as we could, and I do hope she will be all right, reaching home without any accident. I am glad Elizabeth is with her, for I imagine she will be of more help than Henry Kips. Blessings brighten as they take their flight. I have not half appreciated the comfort of Clara’s society, and now I miss her so sadly. I would give worlds for one hour to tell her how much I think of her. We were always going or doing something. I dare say too I’ve been awful peevish lots of times. Oh dear! If one could be good always, how that Old Adam, born in the flesh will come out. I am horrid lonely, and would willingly have gone back with Clara, but that Bob is improving so, and it is still so cold at home, Eva says - Clara will stay a day in St. Louis and Chicago, the delay was unavoidable on account of the time the boat and the trains got in. I hope she will get home safe. I expect to worry, Mother, like you, until I hear. She felt bad too at leaving me. It is too bad when a party breaks up, that have been together some time, but Clara had already staid ten weeks instead of six as Bob calculated. The steamer’s delay made some difference, so her expenses are a little more. She has made, too, a number of purchases.

       Bob gave Clara the amount but didn’t have time to take the items off from his book. He encloses them now.

       I’ve been out to the Barracks today to see Col. Sturgeon, and major Smith and wife, who called upon me. It is a lovely spot. The Col. was officer of the day (or post) I believe. We had cake

and wine. It is three miles out, so we reached the city again about 5 o’clock, too late for dinner at the hotel - so we went to Relangers Ladies’ Restaurant and had a nice little dinner. Bob is writing on the other side of the table in his shirt sleeves, for hot does not express the weather here; and strange to say, until today ladies and gentleman have been wearing heavy clothing. I had forgotten I did not tell you we went to see Ristori Monday night in her great role of Queen Elizabeth, had the felicity of seeing those wonderful dresses, and diamonds, and indeed she and they are magnificent. I must leave the description to Clara. We enjoyed it hugely -

       Mrs. Donohoe called today while we were out, leaving an invitation for us to dine with her on Sunday at five. Of course we shall go, - Shall have to to acknowledge the civility - but it is a bore to go out to dine. We are anticipating attending the Mardi Gras Ball on Tuesday night p144 at the “Varieties” and the “St. Charles Theaters.” We shall probably leave as soon as we get Henry’s check or draft which Bob telegraphed for. Expect to take the Lake Pontchartrain Steamer for Mobile, hence to Savannah, Charleston, Atlanta, Petersburg, Richmond, Washington, Baltimore, New York, home. A much longer trip, you see. And we shall stay for a day or two in each place. We may, however, change our route somewhat. At any rate if, after you receive this you will write to us at Charleston directly, we can hear from home, and the fact of not being able to hear for some little time, making me rather unhappy, so much can happen in that time until I can hear from you that all is well. Direct simply to Robert P Hayes, Charleston, South Carolina. Elizabeth was glad to go, and yet sorry to leave. If you want anything done, don’t hesitate to call on her. She is coming back to me when I return. Now is the house pleasant; Is it nice? I think I’ve been inside of p145 it, things look very differently on paper you know than when they are finished. Now that closet upstairs - if it interferes with the landing for Mercy’s sake, have Henry have it torn down and plastered before we get back. Bob wrote to him to do so if in any way interferes, for we have closet room enough without that. We hope he will attend to it. There were to be silver plated hinges and knobs and locks downstairs. Bob spoke to Henry, Allison, and Will Anderson. Porcelain upstairs --- My dear little girl, how well she keeps and all owing to your good wholesome food - Dear Mother - and her warm bed at night. I hope she is good and obedient and does not trouble you too much. Believe me we appreciate all your kindness most truly. Dear little Lena seems to be the sick one just now, but summer will soon come - the first day of spring is already here. Only think what a winter we have escaped. I hope Maria had a nice time and how is Auntie Burt. Henry’s ankle still seems to trouble him. I hope it is not a bad sprain. Will, I can sympathize with you in the stye  line. Dick, my bonnie boy, you are known all over the country, I verily believe. The clerk of this house, Mr. McComber, used to live in Cleveland. I believe it is owing to you we have such a nice room. We talk of changing, however, to the St. Charles next week. It is so far over here, so out of the way of everything. I am somewhat disappointed in New Orleans - everything looks so old - only Canal St. that amounts to anything. No handsome residences as in other cities - Well, give my love to one and all of the relatives and friends.

       Col. Sturgeon talks a great deal of Louise Wilkenson - tell her there is something going on that I have not heard of. Do write, dear people, so that we can hear at Charleston how you all are. Henry’s letter was splendid. Eva, you are real good to write so regularly. Mother has not written in some time, but she thinks, I suppose, one will answer. Bob sends much love to all, Oh! Eva, wouldn’t it be elegant if you could get to housekeeping. Jolly indeed.

       Aff Yours, Sara

p147 New Orleans, Thursday Mar 12 1867

       Sunday, Mch 3rd - A foggy 1867 misty day - rose very late, making up for lost time - Bob and I sleep so soundly. Had such a pleasant dinner party at Mrs. Donohoe’s. A Mr. Manuel, and Mrs. Peacock were the only guests besides ourselves. A beautiful dinner and one which we did justice to. Almost two months, yes quite that, since we were inside of a home. Mrs. Peacock wishes me to tell Aunty Burt, Mother, how delightful it is to rest - to get up in the morning with no care - She is enjoying her visit here greatly.

       Monday, up quite early and started out for places to see the fireman's procession  pass. Went to Belayer’s Restaurant -  Capitol place. They all formed beneath it, on Canal St.  Engines and carts were decorated most beautifully, and in quite a novel manner. I must not forget that I may tell some of the gentleman at home, it was so very pretty. The streets were crowded. While waiting for them to form Bob and I were highly amused at a little boy’s remark “Oh mamma, see that fireman with a Yankee Flag.” “Hush! Hush! My dear, we are all Yankees now.” It is astonishing, the intensely bitter feeling they have here against Northerners; it hardly seems like our own country. Everyone says, “Oh! You should have seen this or that before the war” or “Yes, but it was very different before the war. “ I have seen Rebel Generals and Colonels without number. Generals Bragg and Johnston are staying at this hotel - They have been making grand preparations here all day for the ball to be given here. A gentleman having died at the St. Charles, it is given here at the St. Louis -

       We were also invited to Gen. Sheridan's to attend the German - had two inviitations, one came, through the Donohoe’s - We would have liked very much to attend, but being full dress, what had I to wear. Oh Mother dear, that moiré antique of mine might better have been in the ocean, or store, for never have I needed it. If my dressing gown had only been left at home, and I had brought more suitable clothes with me.

       We went to see Jefferson in Rip Van Winkle, at the Varieties Theatre, and oh! it was so touching and beautiful - after which with the addition of my white lace shawl, to my toilet I took a sit down place in the Rotunda, and was a spectator of the Ball. I did not discover that the ladies were so very poor here. Certainly there was no lack of diamonds.

       p150. A great many strangers were present. Carlo Pitti led the orchestra, and the music was splendid. I should think there were about eight hundred present, some extremely beautiful dripes (sp?).  Ristori and husband and daughter were present. I stood directly by the former’s side, for a long time, and had there a very near view of her. She is a very handsome woman, and her daughter is so lovely. Ristori wore a pink moiré antique and gold band in her hair - her daughter a white silk. The supper was given in the larger dining room, well lighted, and all seated - a very brilliant open blaze. It broke up about four o’clock.

       Bob has met here an old friend of his from Providence R.I. Mrs. Isabelle Manton, who married Morris Morgan. His uncle owns several plantations here, and they are spending the winter on one of them. They came down to the city to enjoy the carnival. How strange it is, one meets friends everywhere.

       Tuesday Mardi Gras

I imagine it is very seldom a Northerner has the opportunity of seeing this famous day in New Orleans, a day of mirth and jolliness which it is almost impossible to describe. From a very early hour the streets are thronged with maskers, and the crowd increases towards the afternoon. Some on foot, others in carriages and on horseback. Bob and I, inspite of the crowded streets walked out to survey and see all we could. We were vastly amused. Passing Christ Church, we noticed quite a little crowd, so we thought we would step in and see what was going on. Besides, we wished to see inside of the Church. We were hardly in before a bridal procession arrived. We took seats and waited until the ceremony was over. There were four brides maids all dressed very beautifully - friends in full dress also. Married in the Episcopal way. The only difference was that after the service they adjourned to the vestry room to register their names. Who they were we have not been able to find out even through the papers except that the man was “Nicholas”  and “Mary” for so the clergyman addressed them. At six o’clock Canal St. was literally packed, about eight thousand persons extending three blocks from St. Charles St. - Balconies and windows were filled. For years back there has been a procession here called the “Mistick Kreme.” Between eight and ten o’clock they parade through some of the principal streets, each year taking a new route, and starting from a different direction. They finally bring up at the Varieties Theater where they go through a programme of their own. Special invitations are given, none to be bought, and the entire lower part of the Theatre is given up to ladies - gentlemen  are not allowed to sit with them. Full toilettes - you can imagine how very beautiful it is - row after row of very elegantly draped ladies, unbroken by a single black coat. A sight worth gazing upon - the former, I mean. No one knows who the “Mistick Kreme” are really. But they are the first gentlemen of New Orleans and form what is called the Pickwick Club. However they are so many (150 in number) that they cannot be designated that such and such took part in it. We concluded that we had rather see the performance from the outside, than to be jammed and crushed for about two hours before getting into the theatre - so we went up to Canal St. and after some financing managed to secure a stand point on a balcony near Royal St. Bob had applied for the place early in the morning, but even with that precaution, it was no easy task. From there we had a fine view.  Although, shortly after we had settled ourselves, a fine drizzling rain began to come down. The spectators, including ourselves, were not to be disheartened and held out bravely until the procession made its appearance. In front, behind and on the sides of the procession were frames of wood, carried on men’s shoulders, and filled with torches set into them at regular distances, making as you see, a most brilliant light. Then inside this barricade came, first the musicians, then a large placard stating that this was the “Triumph of Epicures” - a regular dinner party in effigy - a bottle of absinthe, then sherry, another with oysters all over him, one large oyster representing his head. See, I send you a bill of fare, and you must judge. Now all these were represented as you saw those champagne bottles and beer mugs at the Liedertafel Carnival. Here  p154 the most immense silver knife and fork, and candelabra, etc. A monstrous ox, garlanded, and drawn on while moved along; and a tremendous great gourmand. It was a greeting with shouts of laughter. We saw it pass twice - a most elaborate thing. Now keep the programme and the tickets which are very beautiful, and which Bob wants to show to the Liedertafel - It was rare fun - that Tableaux - surely that Gourmand must have dreamed up all those dishes - such a monstrous size and they all come out in the same order in which they would be placed on a regular dinner table.

       Funny enough! - At twelve o’clock, after their performances in the Theatre, all of these maskers quietly slip away, no one knows where, (*as their clubroom is under the Theatre it is not difficult to fathom their mysterious disappearance RPH) and the ball commences, and is kept up until morning. There are balls everywhere over the city - A great day. p156 I assure you, it was, and I was so sorry Clara was not here to enjoy it too. I miss her very, very much and Elizabeth too. I suppose they have not yet reached St. Louis, and oh! how I hope they had a pleasant trip.

       Wednesday - it rains in torrents, and makes it perfectly impossible to go to church, although I see a few have braved the weather. So I have passed the day before a bright coal fire, and the first I’ve seen since last December, toasting myself and reading a novel, (and my prayers). Bob has been down to the post office, hoping we might hear from home once more before we left here - as Bob telegraphed to Henry Bunt, about a week ago, we were thinking that you would see that we should remain long enough to get another letter from you. We are going to retire in good season tonight.

       p161 Thursday - Quite a bright day but very cold, and to us it seems bitterly so. Bob laughs and wonders what I would think of at home now. We heard this morning from Henry Bunt. He tells us the house is nearly finished. Tell me, is it nice, Mother? I hope so. I dare say there are faults, but no one ever built without wishing they had done so and so, and I am sure I shall be quite satisfied if it is neat and comfortable. I went to Madame Leontine’s this morning to be fitted for a street dress. My clothes are either too dark or too light for this spring like weather. I took the blue poplin I bought in Cuba, and with a grey poplin underskirt it makes a very pretty suit. I only wish I had time for a light silk to be made, but we shall leave here by Wednesday of next week, and so there would not be time. Bob is smoking and reading, no plans for this evening. We have seen and heard all the amusements going on, so far, and until there is a change of programme our evenings will be very quiet. Bob’s friends, Mr. and Mrs. Morgan, go back to their plantation tomorrow morning; gave us a very cordial invitation to visit them.

       p162. Friday - Another miserable wet day. Bob and I are quite at a loss about what to do with ourselves. We have been sitting down before the fire most of the day reading, and with occasional listening spells to the very disloyal tattle - We hear Mrs. General Bragg holding forth to another lady. Bob, I see, can scarcely contain himself. We have not seen Colonel Sturgeon for some days. The weather, I suppose, has kept him from coming into the city.

       Saturday - Still raining but quite warm. We are in hopes Clara has safely reached St. Louis, and presume she will wire - even a line would be comforting. Here we might have heard from you again if Bob had only made some settled plans. I have taken out a hankerchief to embroider, something to kill time, and played Resique with Bob. We can neither of us go out this weather, and it is not so pleasant for us.

       Sunday - At last a bright Sunshining day, and I arose in good season thinking I could go to church; but Bob is awful - he delayed getting shaved until it was quite out of the question. So we took a walk around Jackson Square, and peeked in at the p163 Cathedral - Col. Sturgeon dined with us at four o’clock, and we spent a very pleasant evening. Upon reading the mornings papers, I saw a Mr. Lester Clark’s name, and wondered if it could be Bob’s friend. When we returned from our walk we found his card and so it must be the one. And the blood thirsty and voracious interpreter of the Hotel Telegrafo of Havana is in town. I sent some of his letters to the papers here which he told Clara and me he wrote for, but he was such a liar we did not believe him. He must have recovered very quickly, Clara, from his smallpox.

       Monday - Went out shopping with Bob to find a pair of boots for myself: not such a thing to be found. How I wished I had purchased more in Cuba. They ask twelve dollars here for boots, and none of my number. Everything is extravagantly high, I never saw anthing to equal it. Found Mr. Leslie Clark’s card again, so Bob went over to the St. Charles, and left his card, with a few words that we would be at home between six and seven this evening. Had a call from Mrs. Major Smith also - we are going p164 to make a farewell visit tomorrow upon Mrs. Donahoe, and see the Arabs perform at the Opera House, Clara. This is the first opportunity we have had to see them in public. They have been at the circus all this time, and that institution not being just the same here that it is in Havana. We leave here either Saturday, or Sunday evening for Mobile. We take the Steamer at Lake Pontchartrain at five in the afternoon, and if on time are at Mobile by nine the next morning.

       My letter must go tomorrow, for you will be wondering why i do not write. How I wish I could hear from you again before leaving here, I do hope my own little girl keeps well, I think of you all so often and trust nothing will happen to you before I reach home. You have no idea how Bob has improved since we came here. He really looks like himself again and when he first came, Sturgeon was quite shocked at his appearance. Well, by the time this reaches you Clara will have been at home some days, and given you quite a description of all our doings. I miss her very much for of course Bob is not with me p165 at all times, though no one could be kinder, or more selfless and devoted. Elizabeth, too, I miss when I get tired and am in an awful hurry. Don’t let her think, Mother, but what I am depending upon her, when I return. Maria Reed has returned ‘ere this, I suppose - Much love to her and Auntie Bert. That closet in our house, do see that it is taken down if it spoils the landing. Bob says he thinks from what he wrote, Henry will attend to it, but I am sure he does not write explicitly enough; the closets were to be finished inside as Bob wished or directed. Now in that (one) in our room we want a few drawers, good sized ones, and in that closet in the upper hall I intended to keep our linen, but if the closet interferes, I could take the one in the back room. If not, we want drawers put into it like those at Aunty Berts. Will you and she see to it? Bob says, have it fixed according to your own ideas. Bob will get what furniture and gas fixtures we want in new York, and also the mantels. I am afraid you will all think me equal to Henry Dudley, in my letter writing, so I will finish this off, for it must be an infliction to wade through it, and then you know I cannot write slow which makes my writing horrible. Wearing my thin barege today and having strawberries here in great plenty.

       Tuesday - We had such a pleasant call from Mr. Clark. He is travelling with his father and came from Cuba here. They arrived *(was it not too bad) in the Liberty on Saturday and we took our departure from New Orleans in the same ship on the following Monday. Worst of all he was staying at the Telegrafo, and so Clara and he were two days in the same house without knowing it. He discovered it by going to the Post Office where he saw her name on the list of letters. On returning to the hotel he learned from Gov. Miner that we had left that morning. He manifested his disappointment so plainly that when he left (on the next Steamer) they all teased him, as hurrying away to meet Miss Sizer. It was a second disappointment to him to find that she had again left.  It seems he had also called to see her in New York after we had started in the Morro Castle for Cuba. They leave today for Chattanooga, and may possibly go to Buffalo, he says. he made one call upon Mrs. Donohoe but they were out.

       We went down to the levee this morning to see the New Steamer “Robert E. Lee”, the finest on the river. Going this evening to see the Arabs at the French Opera House, and tomorrow evening to the St. Charles Theatre to see Jefferson in “Our American Cousin” - I find the tickets for the “Mistick Kreme” performance are so large, I cannot send them, but enclose the programme. Now hug my darling, darling precious for me, and tell her to be a good little girl. A kiss for Lena and love to all and one of the family. Bob sends much love.

               Aff. Yours

                       Sara

       p168 Mobile, Mch 20, 1867 How much easier it is to keep a sort of journal from day to day so that the dear people may keep posted as regards our movements. And I do not have to puzzle my brains to recollect where we have been for the past week. Sent off my letters, and have quite given up hope of hearing now from home before we reach Charleston.

       Tuesday - Went to the Opera House, to hear a French play and see the Arabs, Clara’s “Hash” did not perform to any extent at which we were somewhat disappointed. They did not discover us, although we had front seats, but they seemed to be gazing about the house as if looking for some one. Bob has such a capital joke on me, words cannot describe it on paper. I was intensely amused at the play, and though I could not understand the language, laughed at everything. I notced that Bob nudged me but paid no attention whatever. You know french plays are not remarkably modest; on the contrary they are rather broad and it seems I laughed at a very mal apropos time. Never mind, I laughed still more  when it was explained to me, and as it is not quite proper, will leave the description until I return.

       Wednesday - Took the cars out Prytannia St. to make our last call on Mr. Donohoe - found them out. Afterwards sauntered up and down Canal St. ,got me a pretty jet comb like Clara’s. Have not found, or made, any acquaintances in the Hotel, so that when Bob is not with me (which, to be sure, is very seldom) I am quite lonely. But Bob buys me the greatest quantity of novels, so that already I have quite a library on hand. We went to see Jefferson in the American Cousin. The house was crowded and we enjoyed it very much, though Bob preferred his “Rip Van Winkle.” Received a letter today, forwarded from Cuba by Mr. Springer from Charlie Hayes.

       Thursday - Before getting dressed got Clara’s letter, and we were delighted to learn that she had such a nice time. She does not give me the reason of the delay at St. Louis, but we conclude it was storming, or non-connecting trains. I wonder, too, if she is p170 going to make a visit in Cleveland. By the by, Mother, you may just inform Miss Elizabeth, she is very much mistaken that unless she put Mr. Hayes boots in her trunk, she did leave them behind, for they are certainly not in any of our trunks, as we have repacked them all. She was very careless about things, and much more would have been left if I had not asked about this, or that, and which used to make her quite huffy. Bob had to buy her another pair at a most exporbitant price, $16. Provoking enough. She need not be quite so sure. Mr. Sturgeon dined with us today and went with us to the theatre in the evening.

       Friday - Today it rains in torrents and so cold, I’ve put on all my heavy underclothing, drawers too, so you see it is quite a change. The river is rising and some parts of the city are covered with water. They seem to fear that they will have trouble here, as in other places. Quite a party of French Counts and Marquises came this morning by the French Steamer, also a large party from Cuba - and say, my Dear Clara, all their dresses and cigars in  their trunks were confiscated - everything.

       The ladies were feeling awfully blue. They came by the steamer Havana. The whole vessel was searched thoroughly, so we were very fortunate, you see. This evening Bob nd I have passed playing Resique -

       Saturday - Cloudy, but not wet, so that we could walk out - Bob and I went round to the “Head Quarters”, but Sturgeon was not Officer of the day, as we supposed, so we visited the City Hall, and poked around into innumberable places. Packed most of my things ready for a start on Monday night. Mr. Clark gave us some hints relative to Hotels on our route, before he left, which may be of some service. Spent the evening very quietly reading. Eliza Donohoe called and bade me goodbye, the day after I was there; she was, and has been extremely cordial and polite to us, as has also her husband - I feel as if a line from home telling me Mollie was quite well would have been very comforting before starting again. Still, we are getting nearer home. I hope you enjoy the pecans, Bob knew you were very fond of them, Mother.

       Sunday Mch 17 - This morning Bob went down to the baracks to bid Col. Sturgeon goodbye, for he was on duty there and could not get in to see us off. Sent a bottle of very fine old wiskey to us, some of a lot that was presented to Gen. Sheridan -

       Monday - The last preparations for our departure were made, and I was quite delighted to receive a letter from Ev, although dated the 3rd two weeks on the way - but it gave me later news - They have been having such terrible floods that the day I got this, nine mails were received which had accumulated between the north and this city. Mr. MacCormack called on me, Clara - He had arrived from Cuba only the Thursday before and been confined to the house with rheumatism - He wished to be remembered to you. Said he came down to the liberty to see us off, but arrived there just in time to see us steaming out of the harbor. We left New Orleans at four o’clock taking the cars to the lake - from thence by the steamer “Mary”, a very good boat. We were delayed by a heavy fog p173 and so did not get into Mobile until ten o’clock, on Tuesday morning. We had a fine opportunity to see the obstructions in the bay. There is but one passage for steamers going up and down the river, and that very narrow, allowing but one to pass in at a time. A rain storm came on just before we reached the landing, so that our view of Mobile was at a very inauspicious time. We drove through mud at least three feet deep to the “Battle House” as it is called, and as Bob very justly remarked this morning, we presume it must have been named from the passage in Scripture “the house smelleth thy battle afar off,” and certainly it applied in that sense to this house. Well, it poured and poured our first day in Mobile. We thought it a healthy and agreable climate for ducks and other amphibians. We had nice rooms, however, and with the aid of novels, and bezique, we passed the day very pleasantly indoors - our bezique has been a never failing stand by - a corps de reserve, to rally when sight seeing is impossible - and p174 this first day in Mobile any attempt to lionize would be vain.

       Wednesday - rain fell, and equipped with umbrella and rubbers we started out for a stroll, going up Government street, the finest area here. Soon the sun came out, a cheering sight, and it seemed such a lovely spring like day. Roses and other flowers in free bloom and in any quantity. So much handsomer than any street we saw in New Orleans, and yet the houses which had evidently been quite stylish in their day bore unmistakeable signs of the war, a general dilapidation about them. People complain here, sadly, of taxes - everything is much higher here than in any place we have been (Billiards 50 cts, shaving 25 cts - RPH) 12 cts fare on street cars even. We saw many earthworks in different parts of the city which were constructed during the war - we finally took the cars after walking quite a distance, and went to their terminal in the suburbs. After dinner we took a carriage, and p175 drove all about the city, saw the place where that terrific explosion took place just after our troops took possesion of the city. Powder shells, etc. were stored in a large warehouse, and in some way fire was communicated to them. Twelve entire blocks were levelled to the ground, and where the explosion commenced, there is now quite a lake, it went so deep into the ground. Of course it is built up somewhat, but it is still a picture of desolation. The ruin caused by this explosion together with some destructive fires that, having occurred since, makes the city wears a badly damaged look. We went to the theatre this evening to see the “great Tragedian”, Daniel Beaudinau - a very slim house indeed, but the play was very good. We leave here tomorrow morning or in the afternoon at two o’clock for Montgomery - Shall probably give that place a day, and then from there to Augusta. I try to write every week but my letters may be a day or two behind. We are both improving in health and pleasant weather has such a decidedly good effect on our well  being that we shall go slow on our homeward road, though it will not be long now before we shall meet again.

       We have had much unpleasant weather the last week and it seems very unlike the “sunny south” one reads of. My dear little Mollie I hope keeps quite well. I wonder if she dreams of me as often as I do of her.

       Now that I am turning my face homeward my thoughts even in my sleep travel home to you all and I often wake fearing something may be wrong for I think of you so much. Be a good dear little girl, Mollie precious. Kiss Lena many times.

       Dear Ev, I shall return your kindness when you are absent some time, and keep you posted about matters. Still you lazy mother, you too might write a line. Well, you just commence, Mother, and hug the family all around for me. Dick, Hen and Will, much love to Auntie Burt and family, and hoping so to get letters and of recent date at Charleston. Just write one letter often you get this to Washington, then to New York. And now good bye, my precious ones all. Bob sends much love to his dear little girl and all the folks. I presume Clara is in Cleveland. Much, much love. Aff. Sara

       The most terrific hail storm has come on as I write. Large hail stones - thunder, lightening - frightful! -

                               p177 Sarannan, Wednesday, Mch 29, 1867

       We arrived here last night, so I shall have to go back almost a week, and tell you what we have been doing. We took the steamer from Mobile up the Tensaw river about twenty miles to a place called Blakely, and there found nice sleeping cars awaiting us for the rest of our journey to Montgomery - We took supper at a place called the Pollard House, as wild as any California diggins, lit up by huge pine logs. The fare was wretched but quite novel. I think Bob must make a drawing of it if he can and send home to you.        

       We reached Montgomery about seven last Friday morning - the hotel was only passable, some thought after driving about the place we would take the evening train to Atlanta. It was a lovely day and a beautiful place to visit. We went to the top of the Capitol, and had a fine view of the surrounding country and were much surprised to see so many large and beautiful residences. After getting on board the train, and all settled, we found there were no sleeping cars, a pretty predicament for two invalids - However we were well under weigh (sp?), so there was no help for it, and we were assured by the ticket agent that one would be put on at West Point - We had a long, long tedious ride - Think of being fifteen hours in going only 133 miles - stopping, as it seemed to me every other minute, and the road fearfully rough. We were just about worn out when we reached the Hotel at Altanta about nine Saturday morning.

       The Hotel there was much more comfortable than the one we had left, and our room was large, nicely furnished, and on the second floor corner room. After breafast I piled into bed, and slept until the afternoon, when we took a drive about the place; saw Sherman’s monuments (as they call them here) everywhere. You know the city was almost destroyed by fire after it was taken, and although it seems to be rebuilding fast it still looks very dilapidated - houses burnt down everywhere, and even after leaving the place for miles outside of the city. The fortifications

p 181 we also saw, and, I believe, did the place thoroughly, even so far as to attend a performance in their largest hall in the evening, and about the most country performance I ever witnessed. We were obliged to take a lantern in order to see the road; but when we are with Romans, we must do as they do, and when one is travelling, see all the sights. How heartily we laughed, I leave you to imagine. Bob thought it best for us to leave Sunday monring, although we debated it some time, but we did not wish to wait over another day in Atlanta,  and so concluded to leave, - We had a nice lunch prepared for us, and another lady and four gentlemen were the only ones besides ourselves in the cars and the latter very comfortable. I think I rather enjoyed the trip to Augusta. We reached there at six o’clock, had a good supper - took a walk, but as it was very dark, could not see much. We retired early proposing to rise about a quarter before seven, and ride about the place for about an hour before breakfast, and then leave on the half-past nine o’clock train for Savannah, which we did. Augusta is a p183 lovely place, and filled with beautiful residences, and lovely gardens, and The Planters Hotel a comfortable place of sojourn. The streets are very broad and lined with trees. The Masonic and the city halls were about the finest public buildings. We had a rather tedious ride here for the road is not near as good as the Atlanta and Augusta Rail Road. We came directly to the Sairen (sp?) House. It has recently been refitted very beautifully. Through Bob’s commandery pin, which he for the first time happened to have on (although he has made himself known before as a Mason p184 to others, and being acquainted too, in other cities - here we knew no person) we were accomodated with the very best room in the house (Private Parlor No. 1), velvet carpet, black walnut furniture - fine style, and taken good care of - I tell Bob his being a Mason has been of great service in our travelling. Since we came back to the states, we have had the best.

       Well! Today, and it is Tuesday, we have been walking and driving about the loveliest of cities, such wide sreets and avenues, and so densely shaded p185 with trees, and having twenty seven parks. Some of the streets, Broad and Ray streets, have, for instance, four rows of trees, there being a double carriage road, with broad walks on the outside. Forsythe Park, at the head of Broad Street is perfectly beautiful. They say the design of the fountain in the center was taken from the Crystal Palace fountain at Sydenham, England. We sat upon one of the seats in this park, enjoying the beautiful balmy air, and the perfume of the roses, a long time. There seems to be a profusion of  flowers here, and everything even more advanced than we had seen farther South. Today we have had new beets and tomatoes for dinner, green aplie pies, etc. Opposite my window there is a very pretty square called Johnson Square, and a marble shaft stands in the center erected to the memory of Gen. Greene, and Pulaski, the cornerstone of which was laid by Lafayette. Another one in Chippewa Square, also to the memory of Pulaski, is very, very handsome, of white marble. Fine churches and many charitable institutions. We also drove out on the Shell road; p187 thought of going out to a place called Thunderbolt, which derives its name from the fall of one of those articles, but it was too far - for “Jeff. Davis,” the name of the horse we had refused to run - we concluded he needed his petticoats on, so we gave it up. We also want to go to the Cemetary Bonaventuré, three miles out; we have been told it is very beautiful. The Shell road is just lined on either side with evergreens, and magnolias - they almost meet overhead. I am in extasies over this lovely place - and the weather is so balmy, not warm enough to p188 wear their clothes, but like our spring days - Bob and I are improving, and hope the cold days will be over when we reach home. I do not know how long we shall stay here, probably not longer than Friday - Dear precious little girl keeps well, I trust. If she has, it is a most wonderful thing, Mother, and all owing to your and Ev’s good care. She has been good and minded you always, has she not? I feel as if I could hardly wait until I hold her in my arms. You ought to see everyone stare at my trunk, and say it beats anything they ever saw.  We have had to pay for extra baggage on these Southern roads. There are many funny incidents which happen to us as we travel along; I wish I had time to write you of them - “Yankee” appears to be the worst and most approbrious term which Southerners can apply to one another, and the innumberable times we have heard it applied often excites our visibility - I write such long journals of my travels, Bob says he shall have to have them published and sent South, under the title of “Notes of a Yank.” I have made few travelling p190 acquaintances, I know not whether it is their, or my fault, but I always feel timid in conversing with entire strangers, fearing a rebuff. There are no amusements going on here at present, so our evenings are passed very quietly - Bob attending a lodge meeting or two. We take the steamer from here to Charleston where I expect to hear from you all, you precious people. Bye the by, we saw here, and the first view of one, a palmetto tree, looking much like a palm, but leaves growing farther down - Clara, this house has the loveliest “Gabinete para las Senoras” you ever saw. How you would enjoy them. I never saw such beautiful forests, so thick, and trees so tall, and wild flower cactuses such as we cultivate at home with so much care. why, Judge Clinton would go wild over all these botanical treasures. Bob has just come in and says we leave Friday morning on the steamer “Eliza Ann,” at seven o’clock, and reach Charleston the same evening. then, and oh! then, I shall at last hear from home and it seems a century since the last letter from you. I hope you are all well, Auntie’s family too, - How does  Sarah Barnum get along? Wouldn’t I pack off that nurse of hers, if she belonged to me. We are going to Bonaventuré this afternoon, so I must tell you in my next all about its beauties, and shall write in answer to the letters I shall receive in Charleston.

       I suppose you often see Elizabeth. I shall write to her before returning. She must be on hand when we do get back. I suppose Lottie Burt has returned and I hope Freddy has quite recovered. Will they give up their rooms this spring? Henry said something

p193 about going to housekeeping if she could find a small house. Tell the boys I’ve a few cigars for them too. Now my own little girl it will be but a short time before Mamma sees you. Do be good and mind Grandma, and be good to Lena. I supposed I should not have time to add any more to my letter, and expected to post it before going out this afternoon, but as the mail does not leave before the morning shall thus be able to tell you about our lovely drive to Bonaventuré - We started after dinner in quite a stylish equipage, coachman in livery, etc.  We met this same establishment yesterday, and supposed it was a private one, and were greatly astonished when it came for us today. We went out the Shell road and then turned off about three miles east. Imagine the trees almost meeting on each side the road for that distance, and a lovely summer afternoon. We entered the cemetary through a rustic arch. This cemetary was originally a private estate owned by Commodore Tatnall; but for many years past it has been in the possession of Major Wilbur (sp?) who now, since the war, keeps the Pulasky House p195 in this city.

       Tatnall’s tomb is about the centre of the grounds, and the remains of his home may still be seem, also that of the present owner which during the war was demolished by Sherman’s soldiers to furnish building materials for their own huts - a burning shame that they should have been allowed to desecrate such a place. The whole estate is about five hundred acres, thirty of which is used for a cemetary, but all owned by Major Wilbur who simply sells a lot as it is wanted. it lies along the bank of the Warsaw River.

       But to return - We entered through long avenues of oaks, which met overhead, forming a succession of arches, and from which, and indeed every portion of the trees, were long streamers of Spanish moss, reaching to the ground and swaing to and fro in the breeze, like funeral banners. I cannot describe to you how weird and unreal it all seemed; and such a profound stillness!

       These avenues stretch out on all sides, so you are continually passing under the arches. It seemed like a grotto with stalactites hauling from the roof. Never p197 have I seen so beautiful and impressive a home for the dead. Fit home indeed.

       “Where like a tapestry o’erhead”

       “The gray moss floats upon the breeze.”

       From here we drove to the little village of Thunderbolt which is also upon the river bank, and saw the famous spring which has continued to flow ever since the fall of the thunderbolt. At all events they say this was the origin of the village and spring. So you see our afternoon has been well spent, and for a two days sojurn in this city, we have seen almost everything. now, good bye, dear ones all - Bob sends much love to one and all. Remember us to all the dear friends. Thousand kisses to my little girl. Aff. yours, Sara.

       p198- Drawing of “Cherokee exchange Saloon, Whiskey and Pies

       Dear Little Pokey - the beautiful picture above is a place on the Rail Road, way out in the woods, where your Papa and Mamma took supper one evening on tough chicken, sour biscuits, rancid butter, bean coffee, brown sugar, and “sich like.” All for a dollar a head - Four white people and fourty niggers make up the town - I have not drawn the hotel, kept by an old darkie woman which was near the rail road track, and was a board placed on two barrels, with more sour biscuits, and worse coffee, and dirtier sugar. Papa couldn’t eat much; but Mamma wouldn’t leave the table till the landlord got the conductor to shout “All Aboard” - The country here is full of little nigs, and Mamma is so much in love with them that I shouldn’t wonder if she brought home a little nigger baby with her - Good bye my precious, we shall soon be home.

       Your own papa

p199   Blessed little girl,

       Mamma must send a very few words to you. I think very much of your little letters. They are a great comfort. You must not forget to thank the Aunties and Uncles for helping you to spell the words. And so you are having buckwheat cakes. I think Uncle Willie must be teaching you some funny words, however, to express how nice they are. I know you are very happy with Uncle Dick and Lena; for between you and I, Uncle Dick makes a Capital play fellow, and he must show Mamma how, for I guess the p200 hearty laughs you have go very far towards keeping you well. I hope you will like the last drawing Papa made for you. Tomorrow we shall be upon the great ocean once more, and oh! I expect to be very sick this time for we have got such a little room, and only a round place like this to see out of or give us air - O - Grandma tells me you are very good, and I am glad to hear it. Be gentle and obedient to all, and play nicely with Lena. Kiss her many times for me. Good night my own precious little girl. Aff  Mamma

       Darling, this letter to you, Papa found, after he had sent away Grandma’s at twelve o’clock at night - so Mamma got up and added these lines and directs them to yourself, for I did not want my baby to think we had forgotten her. Papa would have written too, but we had so many calls this evening he really could not. We get up at five, so you see we have very little time. Good night again - Mamma. 12 o’clock Sunday night -

       My own little girl -

       I have not had time to write you yourself since we left Havana, but, you see, I have had the Aunties in Rochester, Uncle Charlie, and Grandma to keep informed fo whatever we are doing and where we are going. So Mamma has had to neglect her little girl once or twice. Elizabeth is on her way home with Auntie Clara, and I have told them both they must hug you, oh! So much, for me. It seemed as if Mamma must go too, for it is quite a while yet before I shall see you - Now do try and be very good, won’t you darling, and make as little trouble as you can.  You must be very patient with your llttle sick cousin too. I am p206 so glad you keep so well, you like to stay with Grandma I guess. Do you often think of Papa and Mamma far away? My precious little girl, you must not forget us in your prayers. Kiss Lena a great many times for me, and think of Mamma longing to take her little girl in her arms. Papa is going to write a few lines. Good night, darling.

       Your own Mamma

       My little darling,

               Instead of coming back to Buffalo, we have sent Aunty Clara and Elizabeth home - and we shall stay a little longer away from our precious daughter. You must write another letter for me we think heaps of them, and read them first of all. Papa is glad to hear such good accounts of you from Grandma, and hopes you will keep doing so.

       I suppose you can read almost anything now. You must learn every lesson perfectly, and keep at the head of your class.

       Good bye, my lambkin,

               Your own Papa

p207  I dare say, you all scold over my writing, but I can not write slow, and so I presume half is unintelligible. Have patience, do make it out if possible - Ballard House, 1867 Aff yours, Sara

       Dear Mother,

       you and the boys being the only ones at home, I write my letters to you all. I was terribly disappointed at receiving no words from either of you, or “Eve” at “Charleston,” and was really quite unhappy, four weeks is a long time to wait for news. To be sure, “Henry” wrote to Bob, but it was not all intended for me so did not seem quite the same as a family letter from you. I was very grateful though, to hear “Mollie’s” kept as well. I almost thought my letters were boring you, as you could sure find one hour’s time in four weeks to write me -- We reached Charleston, taking the steamer from Savannah, (as I write you) last Friday, we passed very near the ruins of Fort Sumpter; and had thus, a distinct view of that surrounded fort. It is almost level, however, with, the water, in fact one mass of ruins, Forts Wagner-Ripley - the latter only built of Palmetto logs, and filled in with dirt. Morris Island and all these celebrated spots, had a view of Saturday - we drove all about the city. It is one mass of ruins, destroyed by fire shot and shell, it looks more desolate than  any city we have yet visited, and the people appear so apathetic for their years, these seem to have stood and not seen the lots clean of the fallen bricks.

 One of the handsomest residences was Mr. Franklin’s while Secretary of theTreasury. He seems to have made himself rich brokered (wrecked) ruinings, ( we were told.)

       At all events his place was in good repair and very beautiful.

       Magnolia Cemetary we drove out to on Monday and although it is not so vivid or picturesque, as Bonaventuré, still it is very lovely. The Ashley River runs through it, dividing parts of it into three or four islands connected by bridges.

       By the by we saw there about the oldest monument to the memory of a friend that one could possibly imagine, a trunk of colored glass, sort of a temple with miniature steps, three of them on each side, on which was inscribed, on one side, “Her first - and last - kiss was mine,” and - she was - but words are wanting  to say what - what a wife should be - and that - then numerous Masonic emblems upon other parts of it. Mr. Urisi’s (sp?) memorial to his wife. We went to Grace Church Sunday - which is in a most dilapidated condition, bearing marks where a shell passed through the building, tearing down one of the pillars and destroying a portion of the ceiling, it is only recently they have commenced repairing it. In our drive on Monday we also saw the central Presbyterian Church through which a shell passed while an officer on Banniger’s (sp) staff was being married. It struck him, killing him instantly. While the story was being told us - and the names which I’ve forgotten, both Bob and I recollected it’s being in the Northern papers, and we then supposed it a sensational story. Perhaps you may remember - p209 - the battery said to be a place of great resort. It is a beautiful drive - quite wide - a large park and the street lined with what once, must have been handsome residences - But everywhere, everywhere there are falling walls, toppling roofs, and gaunt chimneys confronting one. We left Charleston Tuesday morning, arriving at Florence at half past eight in the evening, and finding there were (as usual) no sleeping cars, preferred staying overnight there - were shown into a very country tavern, no carpet on the floor in our room, bed rather comfortable, but a fire of pitch kindlings, made a beautiful light and rather made up too, for all discomforts. You would have laughed to see “Bob,” the next evening, hold up one of these pitch sticks, on fire, for me to dress my hair by the light of it, the candle was so very dim. We were obliged to rise at five am in order to go on to Petersburg. We breakfasted on the road, reached Petersburg at ten o’clock Wednesday night, accomplishing our hardest journey of all in this day a half and glad it is over with -- At Petersburg we stayed until Thursday night about ten o’clock which gave us ample time Thursday to drive all about, and indeed we found the place very interesting - It is much larger than I supposed, not as beautiful as Savannah but more business like, more energetic, what have made there during the war has been in a measure repaired - we drove out to the “crater” as it is called, the scene of the explosion of the mine, and the battle field where in nine months two armies p210 lay within eight yards of one another, and although ten years have gone by, and have a realizing sense of the frightful effects of war. The owner “Mr Griffith” of this farm -- We see about, explaining to us the position of the armies, of their charges, and many incidents to see of which realities we were able to see -- where the explosion took place - and this extremely deep hole where the mine was constructed and which had been used afterward by some soldiers as winter quarters and large embankments of earth had been thrown up by the explosion, and “Mr Griffith” told us of three hundred Confederate soldiers who were stationed on that spot at the same time, but three escaped alive. He was present at the time and said that as it exploded as the line of federal batteries opened fire, and that he thought (to use his own expression) all Hell had broken loose and every man, woman, and child would be “exterminated.” He said there were men in every concievable shape killed here, an arm and then a leg sticking up and only 10 years ago they were disinterred, many still remain in. He told us he was on the spot when they were taken out, looking for the body of a friend who still remains in the earth there, and observed that the bodies, although much blackened, were not now decayed, and the blood even ran from them when lifted out. The earth seems to be a white clay which soon hardens when exposed to the air, and when freshly dug can be molded into any shape. Well! everywhere were still giving shredded  confederate bills  etc.------ is guaranteed thousands.  He told us of one instance and showed us the spot which was marked by the bones a horse which the recent rains had disinterred. Gen. Lyon and four officers were issuing dispatches from a courier who was on horseback. A shell struck them, cutting off the General’s head and killing the others instantly. There are a number of entrenchments and of course much more which would take too long to relate. We saw also a beautiful little church built by the 6th New Yorker Engineers a short distance from the battlefield. Mr. Griffith showed us inumerable relics which he had picked up off his farm. The latter comprises almost thirty thousand acres and was since the war, first broke, and was made a drill grounds of. and more a smaller part of it can be cultivated. For he showed us a trench about two miles in length which was completely filled with confederate soldiers, (not yet named?)  and the small braids which marked their regiments already decaying. The United States soldiers all had been removed, so you see making of this farm a past cemetary. It was very sad, and gave rise to so many thoughts. I fell half sick when we left them.

       Our journey last night from Petersburg have ___, we left at ten o’clock, arriving in this city at eleven. You see but one house, struck me rather forcibly - between Gen. Grant’s nine months and our one hour. We have been driving all about the whole day. This city is considerably larger than any other Southern city we have seen with the exception of New Orleans, and even that it surpasses in its citified air. We are staying at the Ballard House. More like one of the New York Hotels than (off the bottom of Diary page) as yet, comfortable room p212 on the first floor, etc etc.

       Their principal business street, called Main Street, was burnt down on the surrender of the city on both sides for many square ___? but now a great portion of it has been rebuilt, with some very handsome buildings too. The capitol stands upon what is called Sahrekhorn Hill; the building itself not much, commandands a fine view and in the park surrounding it is the equestrian statue of Gen. Washington. From Liberty and Bay Hills, we also had a view. There seem to be a great number of steep hills and innumerable valleys - “Belle Isle” we gazed long upon and trying to imagine how much? was from soldiers must have suffered there and many of them finding there a grave. Cassita Thunder and the Libby Prison we did not fail to visit, both large, square, three storied buildings formerly tobacco factories, and the former used as such now, the latter used as a guard house by new troops now. Geff Harris house was reoccupied by Gen. Scheffield and his carriage was used also by the General. You can imagine with what bemusing gayze (sic) we looked upon all these objects of interest. Visiting too, the industrial school, presided over by Miss Foster and ______, for the purpose of giving employment and instruction to negro workers -- They earn a living for themselves, are paid either in money or clothes as they prefer. A contract for army clothing has been given them by Gen. Schefields -- but they do sewing of all kinds. Fine and casual. They sang for us several songs. One they used to sing on stage... All that we saw some forty females had been slaves, and the one who led the songs was sold with  p213 her child two years ago for six thousand, five hundred, she had regained her child and bring him with her husband and says as she sings this other song, which they call “Freedom Song” she feels it sung and in her heart. The words run something like this “the chains are burst. At last, at last! Praise God! I think I’d like to die. Our chains are burst. When Sherman come, The Rebels they ran away, away, Praise God etc.” So mild and plaintive, to save me I could not help the tears coming. Bob too, was very much affected. Ah! You ought to see these things for yourselves and wonder how slavery could have lasted so long. A picture of Lincoln encirled with a wreath of ivy was at the end of the room, and all seem to revere his memory, as they certainly have reason to do. I don’t know what to think, in a political way. Henry, I am sure, when we see and hear, as we often have, some of these lovely farm homes so desolated and no means to improve towns, friends dead, I feel just as if they had suffered enough, and then again when I hear them curse and swear at the Union Flag, and think everything is going wrong, my heart hardens toward them, and I feel as if they needed a strong hand to keep them. Then we drove out to Oak Grove, where thousands and thousands of Confederate soldiers lie buried. One vast wilderness of graves. Many thousands were marked with a simple white headboard giving only the name and regiment, and sometimes two in one grave. - - but oh! So many, many more with but a splinter of a stick, marked with the name, and oh such a number of these half, or wholly pulled out and lying about almost so that thousands will be unknown forever. I never saw so many graves at once. We did not feel the war at all at the north. p214 So very  indirect - We leave here in the morning for Washington travelling half the day by boat to Aiquia Creek - reaching Washington tomorrow night - from there to Baltimore and Philadelphia. We shall be in New York by Friday next, I think, write to me there but send me, please Evelyn Bliss’s address, I may go and see her, if free time, but we have a good deal to do in New York. Bob had an attack of asthma again in Charleston, is better now but if it is cold in New York we shall stay ten days or so. We are both getting anxious to be at home, however, as we come nearer, I trust all are well, my darling Mother - How much I thank you for helping us so heartily. Love to Auntie Burt and family - Henry and Lottie, when you write Ev and Clara. Much love, I am getting much fatter in the face and have kept quite well. If there is (sic) any commissions for me to execute, send me word to New York. Send me the size around of Mollie’s head, please. I could write much more but there is not time and you will think I am tedious. I did not hear from Louise Wilkenson. Wish I had time to write her but I have to write to Aunt Maria and Charles. And in travelling so from place to place it is no small work to get seated to write or even to find time. Aunt Maria said Charles and Louise would probably be gone from Holland Patent by the first of April. Do you know if they went direct to Portland or to Rochester. Rememberances to Uncle Henry and Aunt Charlotte. I dare say you have seen Henry Kip since he returned, well? Love to one and all, and kisses inumerable for my own little girl. I presume she misses Lena, soon we shall be with her.

       p215 Washington, April 7, 1867

       ____ Side Hotel

       My darling Mother and dear ones all, we arrived here yesterday afternoon and it really looks new, more like our country. We had a very fine opportunity for seeing Richmond. The weather was delightful there, and it was only yesterday, in coming on here, we left the keen north wind, and it did seem to go right through us. We came up the river by daylight, and thus had opportunity of seeing Fredericksburg, Alexandria, passing Mt Hermond (?) the latter we had a good view of. It is the custom of every steamer to toll its bells while passing, and until it fades away in the distance. and is it not a beautiful one. Passing, too, Fort Washington and the Navy Yard. The night before we left Richmond, “Clara’s” Major Lance  (as he is called now) saw our names upon the Register at the Hotel . and visited us. We had a pleasant call from him. He asked after yourself and “Lottie,” and seemed delighted to meet some Buffalo people. He wanted us to remain over, very much. Mrs Senate  Morgan, and our former minister to Paris, Mr. Bigelow we also saw us with numberless celebrities in our travels about.

       Your letters were received, precious Mother.

(Bob’s letter crosswise at top of page)

 ____ hear of your shovelling in the coal, and saying the word the next thing. Your letters are bully. The only trouble is they don’t come often enough. I wish you would be sensible about those nuts and break open the boxes. We couldn’t use half of them and they will get old and rancid. You will never succeed in life if you are so modest. Tell Hen that his letters were as they always will be, most welcome. I will try and answer them before I get back to Buffalo. If not, I will answer them in person. With much love to all at home.

       Yours affectionately, Bob -

p216 I read it and then Bob took it, then we read it together. So you see it was appreciated. You allude to some things in the way of news, such as Sarah Barnum’s going to housekeeping, as if you thought we already knew it, but you probably forgot how long it is since we heard from home. I am so glad “Ev” is going to housekeeping, she will be so happy for she has been longing to do so, I presume  - won’t it be nice. You can first call upon me, then Auntie Burt, then Ev, and all within a short distance. - Yes! you will sure to have your hands full getting us both settled. We met Mr. Stebbins here the first thing. He told us of Mr. Goodricks death. I believe Mr. Stebbins is going back to Havana with Mrs. Bartlett, his daughter, next week - the Mudi’s (?) have sent for her to return. Henry Richmond, also called, and Bob met Judge Hall today. The judge said Mrs Hall and Grace were with him, at the National Hotel. He asked after me - leaves town tomorrow. I did not think Mrs. Hall or Grace either would care particularly to see me so have not thought of going over there - - We have already driven all about Washington, but not, as yet, got out and been inside of federal buildings - the capital is entirely finished, or nearly so, I should say. One wing is being completed, and very beautiful it is. Army, Navy, and State, and Treasury buildings, and White House, and nine years seems to have made a world of difference, in all but the “White House” which still looks as I remembered we have seen - Secretary Staton, Seward , McCulloch, Nilks (?) the French and Mexican  Ministers residences, and do not think them very elegant. Secretary Seward’s  is a very unpretentious brick building with dormer windows, and a sentinal paceing to and fro before the door. Tomorrow we have planned to visit all the public buildings, and in fact, see all we can. The Smithsonian Institution has been rebuilt, and about the same style of architecture as formerly - - - We leave here Tuesday for Baltimore. I shall write again from New York, and not until I get there. Bob was writing to “Mrs. Allison” about the house, so I thought I would answer your dear letter at the same time. We are so undecided about the painting, whether to have it all white, or upstairs the doors and halls grained, that we think it left until we return, unless they have already commenced it. We do not intend, my darling kind Mother, to be extravagant. As Bob says you perfectly agree wtih him. What we do get will be only that. That is necessary and quite plain in (?). And we thank you and do not think it “interfering” (as you call it) when you suggest this or that. No! We are only pleased that you are so interested and knowing all (?) it is for our own good. So Clara is at home, you did not say when she arrived. I presume you have had a time  and fixing any young lady up, but gracious___ what will you think of me. I am in rather destitution. Indeed it is a fact. I only hope my boots will hold out until I get to New York. Bob thinks I never took such care of a pair before. p218 But travelling about so uses up clothes dreadfully - and trunks as well. Everywhere we step, something else has come loose. My darling little girl, you cannot think what pleasure your dear little letter gave both Papa and I, and written so nicely. You have improved very much. “Lena” has gone and returned from Cleveland since Mama first heard of it. - You are very good and kind to her we hope, for you know you are getting to be such a large girl and she is still a very small one. I am wondering very much as we come near New York if you still want that trunk and dollies like Gertie Wales’  Mama was to bring her. And I shall expect to hear from you, and Lena who must add a postscript, and what little girls would most like from that great city. Mamma wants to see you very much, and can hardly wait now for the time to come. Well, Mother, if there is anything in the way of commissions for “Ev”, Clara, and yourself that you can think I can do, let me know. We cannot conceive of where such an idea of selling the house could have come from unless our taking the rooms at the Hotel, but it was well we did, returning so late, we should have been minus an (atrduring ?) place - We are going to have a range in the kitchen, Mother, and expected it was already dld, as it was picked out and arrangements made before we left, but now, Bob thought they might perhaps put the boiler in the wrong place and perhaps it would be more purdent to wait until we return. Elizabeth must be on hand at our rooms but I shall let you know when we are coming. Love to every member of the family, that is always understood, kisses to my darling little girl.

(At bottom,) from Bob: Mollie, you are a dear little precious for writing such a nice letter. you make your Mamma and Papa very glad when your little letters reach us. You must keep learning at school. I expect you will be able to read most anything when we get home. And the best of al is that Grandma says that you mind very nicely. You must be the best little granddaughter in the world, and Papa and Mamma will not forget it.

       Your own Papa

p219 New York, April 16

         St. Nicholas Hotel

 Here we are at last in New York, reached here last Friday night, found Uncle Henry and Aunt Charlotte waiting in the parlor to welcome us, and were so sorry to hear Charles Hayes left the city at the same hour (eight o’clock) we arrived, and upon getting your letter and found his city directions on the outside, he supposed we would arrive on Thursday. But we staid (sic) two nights and a day in Baltimore, and who do you suppose we met there? No less a person than Frank Goddard. He gave us quite an account of himself having been through the Civil War. He says he was at Montgomery, when it commenced and he “had to know” to quote his own words, to fire the first salute when the Confederate Flag was raised over the Capitol. Mr. and Mrs. Henry Schrier, formerly Corine Grant, called upon us also, and urged us very strongly to remain over. We drove all about Baltimore and visited their beautiful park called French Hill, nearly as large as Central Park. We staid (sic) but a day in Philadelphia - there it was quite warm and all the ladies were out in their spring toilettes, and very beautifully they looked. I’ve my head full of ideas for Clara’s outfits - short dresses (off the page)... quite plain with skirts.

p220 We had a tedious, cold, and dusty journey here. I am sorry to say my hoarsiness seems to have returned. I suppose it is the change of climate for I cannot think of anything I’ve been imprudent in. I am well rapped up. Saturday was bright and pleasant but cold to us. Bob and I after breakfast called at the Grammercy on Julia and Laura, found them out. We then went over to the Hiltens and were unsuccessful there too, but I left a card asking Fannie to come down about eleven Monday and chaperone me about. We then went to look at mantles. Have about concluded we could do as well at home, still we shall look further to inform ourselves what we do want. In the afternoon I did a little shopping, and in the evening we went down to the Astor to see Mr. and Mrs. Kip, found the latter sick in bed from a cold. Made arrangements to go to church Sunday with Uncle Henry. But unfortunately we overslept, and were quite disappointed for we thought of going to Trinity, - There was nothing to do but look out of the windows. Mr and Mrs Agustus Belknap called upon us in the morning, Clara. She is lovely and told me a great deal about your adored “Mr. James”, which I shall communicate when I return. - Monday. I think I waited until one o’clock for Francis Fillins and feeling so worried at last, took a carriage and went up there and found them all out, and suppose of course she had gone to see me. Left card with the girls, if she returned to explain why I wanted so particularly to see her, and the many obligations I should be under if she would come once again in the afternoon by three. p221 and so went back to wait again. While waiting in the reception room who should walk in but Maggie Brayton. She was very kind, offered me her services which I gladly accepted, and with her kind assistance accomplished some of my shopping and proposing to go out immediately this morning and finish this portion up. Upon returning we found “Fannie” had been here about four - and saying she had a headache, proposing to go out on Wednesday, well, time is of some importance to me now. I’ve made an engagement for that day. We went to Wallacks last evening to see a play called “Hunted Down.” Saw Mr. Corlies the younger, and older, Clara, with two beautiful young ladies this morning. It proves so much for anticipating. The blackest of info could not express my disquiet - have to stay all day in this hotel, looking out of the window and feeling we have our hands full. Maggie Blayton has gone out in spite of the weather, but it is so dreadful. I dare not venture, Will Edwards you know, is here with Maggie. they propose returning Thursday. I feel very much indebted to her, and hope the weather may be peasanter tomorrow, that with her assistance I can finish up. We expected to have gone to the opera tonight to hear “Arisphero” (?) if it does not rain too hard, we shall do so. Good Friday, of course, the stores are closed and altogether this much seems unfortunate for us. We wanted to return Monday next - I mean leaving here Monday next - p222 and if we get through, so that we can do so, will telegraph you - We shall be at home, however, either Tuesday or Wednesday of next week. I suppose Mr and Mrs Kip will leave this week, but it would be impossible for us to do so. I’ve not seen her since Saturday night. I hope my own little girl has quite recovered from her cold. Give her many kisses for me and much love to Lena. I shall be horribly, horribly disappointed if Ev is going off to Cleveland. Now __ its to bed. How we should miss her ____ she ___. Will and Maggie think both of us look wonderfully well and I am sure I am so - Do you know I think I shall get all we need for the house in Buffalo. We can do better at home we think. Prices in some things seem to be higher than when we were here in December. Well it is well to look about because we can then have some idea of what we want. Give much love to all the folks and Auntie Burt. We shall soon be all done now, and very, very glad I shall be. My own little precious Mollie, now I shall hug you when I see you. Grandma is so kind when she says she will keep you until we get in our house because it has been worrying me and Papa. Papa says Grandma knows just how to take care of you for all she don’t feel as I do - -. I can scarcely wait to get home and would start tomorrow if my things were ready and my shopping done - - - Good by again, my dear ones all

       Aff Yours,

               Sara